Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
bizarro

AC: Strategy Guide

Recommended Posts

-----------------------------------

Accent Core Dizzy Strategy Guide

-----------------------------------

For Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced players

This guide is intended to help both Guilty Gear beginners who want to learn Dizzy as their first character, and experienced players who want to learn more about what Dizzy can offer. I have tried to structure it in such a way that even newcomers to the game should be able to understand the content. If you are new to the game, please visit our encyclopedia for essential basics about the game. There is also a basic Guilty Gear FAQ written by Gwyrgyn that helps beginners to understand how the game works, and I recommend that you read through it first.

Navigating This Guide

This guide can be read straight through from beginning to finish, and is what I recommend you to do, especially if you are new to the game. If you have prior game experience and just want to learn Dizzy as your new character, you can skip to Chapter 2 of the guide, which lists her normals. Simply scroll down to the Table of Contents and click the corresponding chapter that you would wish to view.

I have also included links on most of the keywords throughout the guide. If you don't understand a keyword you come across, chances are that you can click it, guiding you to Chapter 1 of my guide, which lays out all the basic keywords you should know.

IF AT ANY TIME YOU ARE CONFUSED, PLEASE TELL ME SO I CAN DE-CONFUSE IT

I try to envision a beginner's point of view while writing, but of course I cannot guarantee that I will always be successful. Please tell me if anything you see in this guide confuses you.

Table of Contents

I. Basic Information and Notations

II. Dizzy's Normals

--- A. Dizzy's Normals (details)

--- B. Gattling List

III. Dizzy's Specials

--- A. Fish Summons

--- B. Fish Summon Combinations

--- C. Other Specials

--- D. Overdrives

IV. Learning to Play Dizzy

--- A. Study Methods

------ 0. 7-Steps to Success!

--- B. Capitalizing on Training Mode

------ 0. Training Mode Tools

------ 0. 7-Steps to Success!

--- TIP: How to cancel 2D into ground-based specials

V. Dizzy's Gameplay Strategies

VI. Basic Okizeme Setups

VII. Tick Throw Setups

Helpful Links

Dizzy's Frame Data

- Contributed by Nehle and RoBoBOBR

Guilty Gear Encyclopedia

- Contributed by Gwyrgyn Blood (?)

Basic GGXX Gameplay FAQ

- Contributed by Gwyrgyn Blood

AC: Gameplay Specifics [in-depth details of certain game mechanics]

- Contributed by RedBeard

AC: Videos

- Courtesy of dustloop.com

--work in progress--

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

------------------------------------

I. Basic Information and Notations

------------------------------------

[back to top]

I suggest you head over to our Guilty Gear Encyclopedia, and also read over Gwyrgyn's FAQs first before reading this guide.

In this guide I will be using the numerical notation to explain directional inputs. If you are unfamiliar with this type of notation, learn it now! It is the standard for Guilty Gear as well as many other games, and very simple to understand once you get the hang of it.

If you picture the numerical on your keyboard as a D-pad (or joystick) with 5 as the center (neutral position), then the corresponding numbers surrounding 5 represent the directions:

:ub::u::uf: ____ 7 8 9

:b::n::f: ____ 4 5 6

:db::d::df: ____ 1 2 3

Because of the way it is set up, you only need to look at your numpad if you ever forget what direction a number represents.

Unless otherwise stated, all inputs are done while Dizzy is standing on the ground. For moves that are done in the air, I will abbreviate with a j at the front (ie. j.K, j.214S).

I will also be using the greater-than sign > to denote gattling (comboing) a move into the next. A comma , will usually denote waiting for your character to recover from a move before performing the next. A slash / will mean "or" to show interchangeability (ex. P/K). Parenthesis will sometimes be used to indicate that an input is optional (ex. j.(2)S > j.P > j.S), or indicate an action that doesn't require your input (ex. (land) ). Finally, (x) will denote that any button can be used.

---------------------------------------------------------------

You may skip the rest of this chapter and continue to Ch.2: Dizzy's Normals if you wish. You can just click on highlighted keywords you don't understand, which will send you back to this chapter to look up the definitions.

---------------------------------------------------------------

The following are some other notations and basics of Guilty Gear you should know to fully understand this guide. They are listed in alphabetic order:

- Hold Slash. Dizzy's spear (421S) can be held up to 102 frames, whereby it will automatically be let go.

]S[ - Release Slash. Used to release Dizzy's spear.

Active - Refers to the amount of time a move stays active (when a move is active it is able to hit the opponent). The longer a move stays active, the more suited it is as a meaty attack (see "Meaty").

Backdash - Done by tapping back twice in succession (4 > 4). Makes you hop backwards. Useful for zoning and dodging attacks, as it can cause many attacks to whiff you if timed correctly.

Blockstun - When you guard an attack, you are put into blockstun for a certain amount of frames depending on the attack. During this state you cannot move or put out any attacks. However, you are still able to burst, and you must be in blockstun to DAA (see "Dead Angle Attack").

Burst - Done by pressing any button + D simultaneously. Also has a bar that is built up similarly to your tension bar. Can be done even while you are being hit to knock the opponent back across the screen (it's like a get-out-of-combo card). If you burst before the opponent inputs an attacks, your burst will be gold, and if that burst hits your opponent you will gain 100% tension for free.

c.S - Close Slash. All characters in the game have two normals associated with slash: a close slash (c.S) and a far slash (f.S).

Canceling - canceling is the act of foregoing the recovery time after certain moves. There are mainly three different ways of canceling in Guilty Gear: canceling a normal with a gattling, canceling into a special, or jump canceling. All methods require your attack to connect with the opponent, blocking or not, in order for you to cancel it. You can also cancel attacks with Roman Cancels and Forced/False Roman Cancels (see below).

Counter Hit (CH) - Happens when your attack hits an opponent who is in an attacking animation. Many moves have certain properties on CH, such as making the opponent bounce high and increasing their recovery time.

Dead Angle Attack (DAA) - When you are in blockstun, press forward and two buttons (except Dust) simultaneously to dish out a reversal attack. Requires 50% tension.

Dizzy - (not the character Dizzy) A state in which an opponent has birds/eggs flying above his head and is rendered immobilized for a long duration. He can mash directional inputs to try to reduce the amount of time that he is immobilized. Usually happens when someone eats one too many counterhits (see RedBeard's Guide for details).

f.S - Far Slash.

Faultless Defense (FD) - Hold back and two buttons (except S+H, which is a Slash Back, or D+anything, which is a Burst). Requires tension to use, so the longer you FD the more tension gets used up. Uses: causes the attacking opponent to get pushed back farther, and blocks specials without receiving chip damage. Also required to block attacks from the ground while you are in the air (REMEMBER THIS).

Force Break (FB)- Uses 25% and is usually done by inputting a motion + dust. For Dizzy, her only Force Break attack is j.214D.

Forced Prorate - Proration is part of Guilty Gear's engine mainly to reduce the damage of certain combos for the sake of balancing the game. Unlike proration, forced proration factors in damage reduction regardless of whether it was used as the opening hit. See Prorate for more information about proration.

Forced/False Roman Cancel (FRC) - Requires 25% tension. Done by pressing three buttons (except dust) simultaneously during a move's FRC window. Only certain moves are FRC-able, and are usually very strict on timing (ex. Dizzy's icespike 236H has an FRC window between frames 31-32). Useful for keeping pressure on a blocking opponent or continuing a combo, or to cancel a long-recovery attack that doesn't otherwise have any other means of canceling.

Frames - Refers to the individual "snapshot" sections that make up a motion picture. There are 60 frames that make up 1 second of motion picture (imagine a 60-page flipbook that takes a second to flip through). The term "frames" is used throughout many guides as a way of assigning time values.

Fuzzy Guard - When an opponent blocks an attack, his hitbox is set in that blocking stance for however long the blockstun lasts. If you are clever enough you can utilize this property to your advantage. For example, if you attack your opponent from the air with a long blockstun move and he blocks high, you can immediately jump upon landing and poke him with a quick move (for Dizzy, j.P) that would hit a standing opponent (but not a crouching opponent). Even if he has switched to a crouching stance after you have landed, that quick move will still hit him since his hitbox is still set on a blocking stance for the duration of the blockstun.

Gattling - Gattling is the basics of getting down combos. It refers to the ability to cancel a normal directly into another attack. In Guilty Gear, gattlings are done by buffering your next attack while your first one has connected with your opponent (even if he is blocking). For Dizzy, and example could be K > c.S > H > 236H.

Guard Gauge - The small bar below your lifebar. Simple version explanation: when the gauge is half-full (default), you take normal damage from an attack. When the gauge is less than half-full (negative balance), you take less damage, and when it is more than half-full (positive balance), you take extra damage. The gauge increases when you block an attack without using Faultless Defense, and gradually decreases over time, or decreases much faster if you take hits. For more detailed information about damage scaling based on your guard gauge balance, see Phaethon's Guard Balance Damage Scaling thread.

Guts Rating - In Guilty Gear, the less life you have, the less damage you take. This is referred to as your guts rating, which is covered in detail in RedBeard's Guide.

Instant Air Dash (IAD) - Done by inputting the directions 754, or 956 while on the ground. Make sure you land the reset on the neutral position (5). Very important to Dizzy's game, especially since she has one of the fastest and lowest IADs in the game.

Instant Block (IB) - Done by tapping back or downback (4 or 1) a little before your opponent's attack connects. Uses: causes faster recovery from stunblock, shorter pushback distance, and gains additional tension per instant block. Does not avoid chip damage from specials, and does not air block against ground-based attacks.

Instant Kill (IK) - All characters in the game have an instant kill, usually activated by pressing P+K+S+H simultaneously, and the IK itself requires an additional input (usually 236236H). Once you activate IK mode, you will no longer be able to do anything that utilizes tension, and will slowly deplete all the tension you accumulated prior to activating IK. Once that is depleted, your life will also start to drain away. If you attempt an IK and miss (or an opponent blocks it), your tension bar will disappear for the round. Dizzy's IK is unique from the rest of the cast (see Ch.3: Dizzy's Specials).

Jump Cancel (JC) - Certain moves done on the ground can be jump canceled to cancel the normal recovery time of the move. This is done by hitting up (:ub:, :u:, or :uf:) after the JC-able move connects with your opponent.

Jump Install (JI) - Jump installing is the act of JCing a normal, but then gattling that normal into another normal before the jump comes out. This then "installs" a jumping opportunity for you, so that if you superjump-cancel afterwards you are able to perform an additional double jump which you otherwise cannot do (ex. c.S > JI > 2S > SJ > double jump).

Levels - All attacks in the game is assigned a level from 1-6. The level of your attack usually determines how long he will be in blockstun after blocking your attack (shortest blockstun = lvl 1). Click here for a quick chart of blockstun values.

Meaty - Meaty attack. The term refers to attacking an opponent as he is rising from a downed position, which is called "waking up" (see also: "okizeme").

Normals - Normals are attacks that are utilized by pressing either punch, kick, slash, hard slash, or dust. Any move that doesn't require a motional input (like 623) is a normal. However, some normals do require you to press a certain direction, such as 6P.

Okizeme - Japanese for "wake-up games". One of the core fundamentals of Dizzy's gameplay. Involves knocking down an opponent, then throwing out a meaty attack (such as a fish/spear summon) with which the opponent will have to block upon waking up, allowing you to utilize certain mixup and pressure games.

Overdrive - A super. Requires 50% tension. Dizzy also has a 100% tension overdrive.

Prorate - Proration is part of Guilty Gear's engine mainly to reduce the damage of certain combos for the sake of balancing the game. Proration is factored in only if your oppening hit of a combo is done with a prorated move. For example, 2K prorates 70%, so if you start a combo with 2K, all the attacks that follow afterwards does only 70% of its combo damage. Some moves have a proration of above 100%, which means that all the attacks that follow afterwards will do more damage than usual. There are also Forced Prorated moves that factor in damage reduction regardless of whether it was used as the opening hit.

Pushback - When you and the opponent are pushed farther away from each other. This happens everytime you land an attack on an opponent, whether he is blocking or not.

Recovery - Refers to the amount of time required after a move has been performed before you are able to do anything. A way to determine which moves are safer than others.

Roman Cancel (RC) - Requires 50% tension. Done by pressing three buttons (except dust) simultaneously after your attack connects. Allows you to instantly cancel a non-projectile attack. Useful for keeping pressure on a blocking opponent or continuing a combo, or to cancel a long-recovery attack that doesn't otherwise have any other means of canceling.

Slash Back (SB) - A form of blocking. Done by holding back and tapping S+H immediately before an attack connects. Uses a little bit of tension. Uses: causes much faster recovery from stunblock, and much shorter pushback distance. If your timing is too late, you will still block the attack, but you won't be able to block any more attacks for a short amount of time (unless you attempt to SB the next attack as well).

Specials - Specials are moves that are done by inputting a certain motion of directions with an attack, such as 236H. Most specials are slower than normals and have a longer recovery time.

Stagger - Certain moves causes opponents to "stagger", usually on counterhits. When an opponent is staggering, he must mash directional inputs in order to recover out of stagger quicker, which is noted by a picture of a joystick moving back and forward on screen. Similar to a shorter version of a dizzied opponent.

Startup - Refers to the amount of time required before an inputted move will be active (activated). Determines whether certain moves are fast or slow.

Super Jump (SJ) - Done by pressing down then up in succession (:d::u:). Jumps higher than a normal jump. Cannot perform a double jump afterwards.

Teching - The act of recovering from a fall by pressing a button (neutral teching), 6 + button (forward tech), or 4 + button (backward tech). Forward and backward teching can be done sooner than a neutral tech. After you tech, you are able to perform a double jump and an air dash (or double air dash for Dizzy and Millia).

Tension - Tension refers to the bar at the bottom of the screen. The one on your character's side is yours, the one on the other side is your opponents. Tension is built up by moving forward, attacking, blocking, catching a gold burst (covered later), or even just being attacked. With 25% tension you are able to use FRCs (Forced/False Roman Cancels) and FBs (Force Breaks). With 50% tension you are able to use RCs (Roman Cancels), DAAs (Dead Angle Attacks) and Overdrives. Some overdrives, such as Dizzy's Gamma Ray, require 100% tension.

Tigerknee (TK) - Refers to finishing a special motion with a jumping input (ex. 2147K). Enables you to perform air-only specials while on the ground.

[back to top]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

--------------------

II. Dizzy's Normals

--------------------

[back to top]

This section will be divided into two parts. The first part will list the details of each normal (such as damage, properties, and uses), and second part will list what each normal can gattle into.

A. Dizzy's Normals (with details)

5P - Standing punch (10 dmg). JC-able.

Quick and short poke that comes out in 5 frames (.083 seconds). Be careful as it sometimes whiffs crouching opponents (such as Chipp). Useful for a quick anti air, to link into S > JC > air combo. However, it doesn't have good priority over most air-to-ground attacks, so be cautious when using this as an anti-air tool. Other than that, doesn't have any other good uses to my knowledge.

5K - Standing Kick (16 dmg). JC-able.

Slower than 5P (7 startup frames) but much more useful as it has longer range and more damage. This move can also cause an opponent's low attack to miss you if you are at a good distance. A good opening move to start a combo as it doesn't prorate and has good range for its quickness, and is also jump cancel-able if you happen to connect with an airborne opponent (eg. if you hit him on his backdash).

2P - Crouching Punch (8 dmg). Prorate 70%.

This is your main poking tool, as it is almost as quick as standing punch and has a much longer range. Can gattle into itself, so spamming 2P could be fun. A downside to this move is that when used as a poke, it does not combo into anything unless the opponent is quite close or you have running momentum. You could try comboing 2P > 2H but a lot of times the 2H will miss, due to the pushback from the 2P, leaving you open and vulnerable for quite a while. If your 2P hits your opponent a good distance away, and you want to combo off it, your best bet is to link 2P > K > 236H since even if the K whiffs you won't be in much of a disadvantage vs. a whiffed 2H. You could also gattle 2P into 5H; it won't combo, but your opponent will only have enough time to react by blocking the 5H, which forces your opponent farther away from you. An additional use of 2P is for attempting a tick throw (dash in, 2P, wait for your opponent to recover from blockstun, then throw).

2K - Crouching Kick (18 dmg). Prorate 70%, hits low (opponent must block low).

Comes out just as quick as 2P, but has a slightly shorter range. Next best poking tool next to 2P, and can combo into 2H, 2D, or 5H (5H only against crouching opponents). At close range you can also combo 2K > c.S / 6P / 2S. Second-best option for tick throwing next to 2P.

c.S - Standing Close Slash (24 dmg). JC-able.

In order for this move to come out, you must be close enough to your opponent, or else a f.S will come out instead. A very quick attack (5 startup frames), gives you frame advantage of +1 (you recover 1 frame sooner than your opponent), and does good damage. A good move to use mid combo, but not as an opening attack due to its limited range.

f.S - Standing Far Slash (20x5 dmg). Attack consists of 5 hits.

Has very good range; however, will whiff all crouching opponents (except for Potemkin), so do not use this move on a grounded opponent who is blocking as he can switch to crouch mid-block. This move is an excellent tool to use against an opponent who is airdashing in, since it has great range and does multiple hits (keeps him juggled in the air) so you can hit confirm and throw out an icespike (236H) to combo. Also forces an airborne opponent to FD for all 5 hits, making him waste a lot of tension. In addition, it is good to throw out against a cornered opponent if you think he will try to jump out, but don't rely on this all the time since if he doesn't jump, you are at a disadvantage.

2S - Crouching Slash (28 dmg). JC-able.

Dizzy's best anti-air tool, as it puts her hitbox low to the ground, and is fairly quick (7 startup frames). Many times will score a counter hit from an opponent that is jumping in, so you can link into her spear (421) for maximum pain (eg. bubble loop combo). This only works if the opponent is fairly close above you and you score a counterhit, so her safest best is still to combo with something like 2S > JC > j.(2)S > j.P > j.S > JC > j.S > j.D, which combos without required a CH. Horizontal range is very limited however, so be wary when trying to combo a grounded opponent using this attack.

5H - Standing Hardslash (40 dmg).

Can no longer be combod into 2D (changed from GGXX:Slash). Very good damage, and Dizzy's longest-range normal. It can even be used as an anti air; in the event of a hit exchange, you will score a counter hit on them that causes them to float, and since you have a good chance of recovering before they do, it gives you ample time to combo them before they are able to tech. Keep in mind that it comes out relatively slow (13 startup frames). Best used mid-combo string, and best followed up with 2H if they are close, or icespike (236H) if they are far. If this hit connects on a blocking opponent, you could also cancel into a fish summon (covered later) or a spear, as the opponent usually won't react in time to punish you from a far enough distance.

2H - Crouching Hardslash (40 dmg). FRC window: 8-10 frames. Scores a knockdown on hit and counterhit. On CH makes the opponent bounce high in the air, giving you time for a followup combo.

Can no longer be combod into 2D (changed from GGXX:Slash). A great move to use as a bait: bait your opponent to poke you, then throw out your 2H for a counterhit. Usually you want to cancel 2H into a fish summon so you can setup a strong okizeme, or simply to cancel the long recovery time of 2H (and trust me, 2H's recovery time is very long at 38 frames!). If it hits as a CH, you have ample time for a followup combo even if you don't cancel with a special or FRC. 2H is also a viable defensive option: when there is a break in your opponents attack, and you think he will try to poke you again, throw out a 2H (try to use a 2H FRC just in case your attack whiffs to make it even safer), and if you guessed correctly you will score a CH. You could also utilize its FRC point as a means to continuing a pressure string or combo since all of her normals (except D and 2D) can be canceled into 2H (dash in > 2K > c.S > 5H > 2H FRC > repeat). Another incredible use of this move is its ability to late buffer into an icespike. When you're dishing out a pressure string on a blocking opponent, if you end the string with a 2H, pause a little to let your opponent think your attack string has ended, then late buffer into an icespike (236H) to catch them unawares!

6P - Standing Forward Punch (26 dmg). Prorates 90%.

Fairly short range. Great tool for stuffing out an opponents attack and scoring a counterhit, and makes the opponent fly back across the screen and bounce off the wall. Also good to use as anti-air, as it gives you great upper-body invincibility (from frames 1-14), but since the startup is a lot longer than 2S, make sure to use it earlier.

6H - Standing Forward Hardslash (38x2 dmg). Hits twice, and has an FRC point at 18-20 frames. JC-able after the second hit. First hit staggers opponent on CH. Second hit launches opponent into the air.

Has 18 frames of startup so is a slow move to throw out, making it much less effective in stuffing attacks compared with 2H. Can also be used as anti air at long range if you are sure it will connect. Has a good use as an okizeme tool to bait opponents waking up with an overdrive (will cover later). Also useful to use against an opponent who likes to mash to get out of pressure, by using a blocked pressure string like 2K > c.S > 6P > 6H FRC. How it works is that although 6P can be linked into 6H, there is a short period in between where a blocking opponent can start a poke (but not long enough for the poke to actually hit you), so oftentimes against a mashing opponent the 6H will catch him with a counterhit.

5D - Standing Dust (20 dmg). Prorates 50%. Hits high (opponent must block high). Launches opponent high into the air for a dust combo.

Slow attack at 27 startup frames, but has quite a long range. Launches opponent into the air for a dust combo, which is pretty much a flashy air combo. Since it prorates 50%, dust combos usually do less damage, but certain characters (like Dizzy!) can still pull off massive amounts of damage off of dusts. Hard to make this hit connect, since it is incredibly slow, but if your opponent is too slow to switch his block to a high block, you can capitalize on this move more often. Otherwise, it is best to use this attack in conjunction with a myriad of summons so that your opponent will not be able to see it coming.

2D - Crouching Dust (38 dmg). JC-able, hits low. Causes knockdown on hit.

Often times referred to as a Sweep. Also has a strange property where you are able to cancel 2D into a special. The range on this move has been dramatically decreased from previous versions so it is much less useful (in addition to losing its FRC), however its range is slightly farther than 2H, so you can try linking 2K > 2D. As a poking tool, it does hit low and has longer range than both 2K and 2P, as well as lowering your hitbox to the ground, so it is still useful. You could also use it mid-pressure string on a blocking opponent (2D > JC > IAD > j.2S) for added pressure options.

j.P - Jumping Punch (12 dmg). Prorates 90%. JC-able.

A good fast air poke (6F startup), and is mainly used as part of an air combo, or to pop a bubble.

j.K - Jumping Kick (16 dmg). JC-able.

Slightly faster than j.P, but with a longer recovery time and very short range. Mainly used as an air-combo opener off of a ground launch, an air-to-ground fast attack, or to pop a bubble.

j.S - Jumping Slash (28 dmg). JC-able.

Very good horizontal range, and is mainly used as an air-to-air poke or part of an air combo. A technique I like to use is to IAD back > j.s, which seems like a good way to poke away an opponent who is trying to jump in or airdash in at you. Also a good way to pop a bubble by ADing backwards > j.S.

j.2S - Jumping Down Slash (30 dmg). A wing attack that swoops in an arc that begins behind her, then at the bottom (10th frame), and finally in front of her (13th frame).

Dizzy's new air move, and in my opinion her greatest asset! Has great vertical range (below her), so if you IAD low enough you can even catch crouching opponents with j.2S for an instant high attack. Also has great crossup potential: many times a IAD > j.2S over an opponent will catch him in his back (since the attack starts from behind you), giving you an instant crossover attack. Instant overhead + instant crossover = top tier move. Also one of the staples of her air-to-ground attack, as it can clash with many attacks if done at the right time, and combos into j.H for an air-to-ground ground combo. A standard usage is to air dash in low to the ground with j.2S > j.H > (land) > 2K > c.S > 5H > 236H.

j.H - Jumping Hardslash (42 dmg).

Is much slower than in previous versions (so the old j.P > j.H combo no longer connects). A very powerful air attack that, while comes out slightly slower, usually wreaks havoc on an opponent as it opens up many opportunities on hit and on block. You can often times score a counterhit with this attack since it is a level 5 move, which if done at the right range can stuff many attacks, and once it scores a CH you can easily run up and get a free combo. Also, if an opponent blocks the attack they are put into an insanely long blockstun, which opens up many opportunities for you, such as landing > D, landing > (dash) > 2K, or even landing > j.P for an instant overhead. This last option works on the concept of fuzzy guard, which gives you a precious guessing game since he will have to decide whether or not to continue blocking high in anticipation of the j.P, or to block low in anticipation of a landing > 2K.

j.D - Jumping Dust (30,40 dmg). Two hits.

Has a huge range, as Dizzy is swept in an arc. When you use this move, upon landing there is a 5 frame recovery period. A good air-combo finisher, and also a good standalone move to use on an airborn opponent. When used as an air-to-ground attack it will launch the opponent up. You can also cancel after the first hit of this move into a bubble.

DAA - Dead Angle Attack (25 dmg). Costs 50%, prorates 50%. Done by pressing 6+(two buttons) simultaneously while in blockstun.

The attack looks just like a 6P, and also wallbounces an opponent the same way. A great way to get out of pressure when you are being bombarded by an opponent, as it gives you invincibility for 1-12 frames, and then upper body invincibility from frames 21-35, and upon hit knocks your opponent all the way across the screen.

Throw - Prorates 50%. Done by pressing 6+H or 4+H while standing next to an opponent (diagonal inputs don't work, and cannot throw while running!). Causes knockdown.

One of the most important of Dizzy's moves, since a throw means the start of her okizeme, which is what her primary strength is. After a throw, you can also combo afterwards with an icespike or by dashing in > 2K/2P/K > f.S (~4 hits) > 236H. Oftentimes you should not do the followup combo in order to setup a stronger okizeme. If you get a throw midscreen, you can do a fish summon afterwards for a crossup okizeme, or a followup combo into corner into fish summon for a high/low mixup game.

Air Throw - Prorates 50%. Done by pressing 6+h or 4+H while you are airborne next to another airborne opponent (diagonals inputs don't work!). Causes wallbounce with 60F of untechable time.

Depending on the height of the air throw, can follow up with a combo, or let them fall for a knockdown. A great tool to use to keep an opponent in the corner and afraid of teching out. Also, instead of following up with a combo, it is often times better to just let them fall to the ground so that you can setup crossup okizeme.

B. Gattling List

The following list tells you what each of Dizzy's normals can be gattled into. Green will denote all normals that are combo-able, and Red will denote all normals that are not combo-able, but still gattles. With the exception of standing dust (5D), dead angle attack (DAA), and throws, all attacks can be canceled into a special.

5P -- 2P 5K 2K c.S 2S 2H 6P f.S 5H 6H 2D 5D

5K -- 6P c.S f.S 2S 5H 2H 2D 5D

2P -- 5P 2P 5K 2K c.S 2S 2H 6P 5H 2D 5D

2K -- 6P c.S f.S 2S 2H 2D 5H(vs. crouched) 5D 5H(vs. standing)

c.S -- 6P 2S f.S 5H 2H 2D 5D

f.S -- 5H 2H 2D 5D

2S -- 5H 2H 2D 5D

5H -- 2H 5D

2H -- 5D

6P -- c.S f.S 2S 5H 2H 6H* 5D

6H -- specials only

5D -- none

2D -- specials only**

j.P -- j.K j.S j.2S j.H

j.K -- j.P j.S j.2S

j.S -- j.P j.H j.D

j.2S - j.P j.H j.D

j.H -- specials only

j.D -- specials only

DAA -- none

Throws -- none

Airthrows -- none

*6P combos into 6H on hit, but on block it will not keep opponent in blockstun

**Only possible if timed correctly

[back to top]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

---------------------

III. Dizzy's Specials

---------------------

[back to top]

A. Fish Summons (Yoku hanashiaite ni natte kuremasu)

Dizzy's fish summons are the foundation of both her offense and defense. When a fish is out, it stays out until either 1) it gets hit, or 2) it reaches its maximum alloted summon time, after which it will simply disappear. This means that even if Dizzy gets hit, her fish will not disappear (like it did in GGXX:Slash), so oftentimes the fish will come back and hit your opponent while he is still comboing you, thereby disrupting his combo and letting you escape for free! In terms of offense, my creed is that the more you have on screen, the more confused your opponent will be, which makes it easier for you to rush in and apply even more pressure. Summoning fish is also the best way to setup okizeme on a knocked-down opponent.

In Accent Core, Dizzy's fish summons gained an additional bonus: she can now followup a fish summon with another fish summon! This means that if you input a fish summon (eg. 214H, the grounded laser summon) then immediately press another button afterwards (eg. P) the fish will first carry out its laser attack and then go into its P fish attacks (two short-distance bites). The timing of the followup input is somewhere between 2-20 frames after you input your initial fish summon (anyone have any specific numbers here?). Any fish summon can be followed up with itself or any other fish summon. In this guide I will denote followup summons with a tilde ~ (eg. 214H~P).

Anyway, onto the fish summons!

214H - (Grounded) Laser Fish Summon (38 dmg). Flies forward a bit, then shoots a laser close to the ground that goes all the way across the screen. Passes through opponent's projectiles.

One of Dizzy's most useful fish summons as it covers a huge distance and hits all ground-based opponents, so it forces them to either block the attack or jump to evade the attack. This move is best used at maximum distance, since it is easy for an opponent to punish you if they are close enough. This move is also best used as an okizeme tool (eg. throw -> 214H), since the timing of this fish summon will hit just about all opponents as they are waking up (after a throw, a 2H, or a CH icespike).

214S - (Flying) Laser Fish Summon (38 dmg). Flies forward a bit, then shoots a laser while flying upwards that goes all the way across the screen. Passes through opponent's projectiles. Longer recovery than 214H.

Make sure you are as far away from an opponent before using this summon because of it's slow startup and recovery. This is a good move to fool your opponent into thinking that you will cast out a grounded laser fish summon, making him jump and eat the flying laser. If you cast out this summon on a knocked-down opponent, you can sometimes catch the opponent waking up blocking in anticipation of a grounded laser fish, whereby you can just run up and throw them.

214K - (One Hit) Biting Fish Summon (25 dmg). After summon, fish flies back a bit then rushes forward close to the ground, homing in on the opponent and biting them. Can catch an opponent up to about 3/4 of the screen away.

This move is very useful to use if you want to rush in on an opponent: simply do 214K, then rush forward alongside the fish. If an opponent tries to poke you, he will oftentimes poke the fish instead of you, giving you a free combo before he can recover from his attack. Even if he hits you instead of the fish, the fish will still fly in and hit him, breaking him from his combo, so in many cases seems like a win-win situation (be wary of multi-hit attacks, like Sol's uppercut or Dizzy's f.S)

214P - (Two Hit) Biting Fish Summon (21x2 dmg). Bites twice. Upon summon, homes in on the opponent for a very short distance until the startup of the 2nd hit.

The distance it travels is very short, usually just inches in front of Dizzy, so is best used when you are standing right next to a knocked-down opponent. Also has an interesting use as a shield, since the fish stays out near Dizzy for quite a long time, so that if an opponent attempts to poke you will oftentimes poke the fish instead. This could aid you in setting up other summons much more safely (eg. 214P~H, 421, 236K, ]S[).

B. Fish Summon Combinations

214H~P - One of my favorite combinations to use on a knocked down opponent in the corner. The initial laser will force the opponent to block, and the followup bites will keep the enemy pressured while you setup your own high/low mixups and tick throws. The timing of the initial laser makes it safe to summon after a throw, since it will activate right as the opponent is getting up. If you want to use this summon combination after a successful icespike (236H), make sure to dash/IAD in and poke the opponent while they are waking up, since the laser will come out too late in case they jump on wakeup. Also has some uses after a throw midscreen. However, if the opponent is not knocked down, I don't suggest using this combination as the followup bite fishes will not be of much use.

214H~K - A great combination to use against a downed opponent, both midscreen and in the corner. Also one of my favorite tools to start a rushdown. The advantage of this combination over 214H~P is that in case the opponent gets away, the K fish summon will be able to home in on the escaping opponent a good distance, whereas the P fish summon will not give chase at all. If you are using this combination as a corner pressure tool, keep in mind that the K fish bite hits slightly later than the first bite of a P fish.

214H~H - A good combination to throw out anytime the opponent is on the other side of the screen. Also one of the best combinations to use after a throw midscreen, as it is part of her standard midscreen-okizeme (throw > 214H~H > IAD (over opponent) > (1st laser hits) > AD (back into opponent) > j.2S > j.H > (land) > 2K > (2nd laser hits) > dash in > 2K > c.S > 5H > 2H > 236H). Do not use this combination against a cornered opponent, as oftentimes the second laser will be too far behind the opponent to be of any use. Also, the second laser shoots in the direction that you are facing, so if you crossover the opponent after the first laser, the second laser will fire in the opposite direction as your first laser (the same concept applies to the flying laser summon too).

214H~S - This combination is a good tool to use if you are trying to keep the enemy away, as it mixes up ground and air control. If you use this combination, a good idea would be to followup with the 236S scythe, as that move will occupy the air long enough as a means to buy time for the flying laser to come out. From my experience, opponents usually don't expect the flying laser summon, so you can just run up and air combo them after it connects with your jumping opponent.

214P~P - The only use for this combination if you are standing very close to a downed opponent (especially on a cornered one). This combination produces the longest chain of attacks (4 bites), letting you explore many options for mixing up your attacks and setting up tick throws. I have come up with countless mixups off of this combination on a cornered opponent, so maybe I'll post a few later.

214P~K - Since the third bite (K fish) will be slightly delayed vs. the third bite of a 214P~P combination, you could use this fact to setup tick throw attempts if your opponent has gotten used to your 4-bite setup. Additionally, since the initial P fish summon will stay close to Dizzy, you could use this combination as a shield while you throw out another projectile (spear, scythe), since an attacking opponent will most likely hit your fish instead of Dizzy. This gives you a safer option of setting up multiple projectiles and then rushing in at your opponent (interchangeable with 214P~H and 214P~S). It is usually wise to immediately followup this combination with a spear/air-spike (421), for if an opponent is jumping in at you after you summon the fish, they will most likely hit your fish and get CH'd by the air-spike, giving you a free air combo or bubble loop combo.

214P~H - Use this combination for a safe way to throw out multiple projectiles, using the initial P fish as a shield (similar to 214P~K). Please refrain from using this combination as a corner okizeme, since the H fish will go behind the opponent, thereby being useless.

214P~S - A great alternative to 214P~H for superior air control. Simply use 214P~S and then summon a spear (421). As with 214P~H, do not use against a cornered opponent UNLESS you are about half a screen away as a means of setting up a corner trap (using the S fish followup to hit him as he tries to jump out of the corner).

214K~P - If you have the opponent in the corner, as long as you are closer than 3/4 of the screen, this is a great combination to keep him pinned down in the corner. Make sure to cover up the holes in-between the fish bites to keep him there!

214K~K - A great way to start your rushdown on an opponent who is fairly far from the corner, as the fish will continue to home in on the opponent even as you are pushing him farther and farther towards the corner (if you use 214K~P instead, the P fish won't give chase, and if you use 214K~H instead, if the opponent escapes pressure the H fish will probably miss). As okizeme, I think that both 214K~P and 214H~K/P are better options, so mainly use this combination as a rushdown tool.

214K~H - Not the greatest combination IMHO, however if you want to stay far away from your opponent and keep throwing out projectiles, this does the job quite nicely.

214K~S - As with any combination ending with a S fish followup, the main purpose is to try to catch an opponent who likes jumping out of pressure.

214S~P - Have not yet found any practical uses.

214S~K - A nice way to start air-control, with the K fish as a safety measure in case something unexpected happens.

214S~H - Good for keeping an opponent away. After a knockdown (with icespike), summon this combination, and immediately put out either a spear or a 236S scythe. The initial S laser will stop the opponent from jumping towards you on wakeup, the scythe will prevent him from teching > air-dashing towards you after a blocked S laser, and the H laser will keep up the pressure once he falls to the ground.

214S~S - Seems to serve only one purpose: air control.

C. Other Specials

236H - Icespike (55 dmg). Forced prorate 85%. Has FRC point between frames 31-32. Lifts opponent and causes knockdown on grounded and near-the-ground opponents. On CH, lifts even higher and guarantees knockdown.

It is vital that you get down this FRC, as it serves many purposes. Just about all of Dizzy's ground combos end with an icespike. As a combo ender, can both push an opponent far towards the corner and guarantee certain okizeme setups. You can also FRC the icespike to continue the combo. If you can read your opponent pretty well, you can also throw out an icespike when you predict that he will dash within its range. Make sure to get down its FRC to shorten its recovery in case it whiffs. Oftentimes this will also gain you a CH, enabling you to followup with a combo, or set up even more elaborate okizeme patterns. As covered in my explanation of 2H, you can late buffer into icespike for an unexpected surprise, also oftentimes gaining a CH (this also works with 2D, but you must JC it correctly).

j.214P - (Punch) Bubble Summon (45 dmg on pop). Must be in the air to summon. Upon summon, slowly moves in a forward horizontal trajectory until it is popped or reaches its maximum alloted time. When popped, launches an opponent into the air.

Dizzy's bubbles make for great pressure tools. When a bubble is popped, it attacks quite a large area around it. There are so many uses for Dizzy's bubbles that I'd be better off writing a list.

1. It is very useful as a defensive option. With a bubble out, the opponent will be forced to approach much more cautiously, as you can pop the bubble any time with a quick poke. Even if the opponent has hit you, as long as you've popped the bubble, he will still get hit, oftentimes letting you combo afterwards.

2. You can also tigerknee this move (2147P) for a quick bubble summon from the ground, and afterwards you have enough time to perform an airdash for a quick way to throw out a very low airdash attack. For the K version, you can tigerknee it, land, and summon her spear (421), as the spear will pop the bubble on its upward trajectory, giving you a shield for a safer way of summoning a spear. This does not work for the P bubble, nor the S bubble if the S bubble is tigerkneed as low to the ground as possible.

3. Bubbles also are great to use as okizeme, giving you good mixup potential, including nasty-looking crossups (covered later). Also useful for following up fuzzy guard setups.

4. This move is also very useful as a way to dodge anti-airs, since summoning a bubble causes Dizzy to float upwards a bit, letting her dodge a potential anti-air.

5. Furthermore, an additional use of her bubbles is in enabling Dizzy to stay airborne for a longer duration. A good and deceptive way to keep your opponent guessing, and see what kinds of anti-airs he likes to use.

6. Of course, the bubble is infamous for its ability to dish out massive damage in combos. These combos are known as bubble loops (which I might cover later).

j.214K - (Kick) Bubble Summon (45 dmg on pop). Must be in the air to summon. Upon summon, slowly moves forward in a 15° downgrade trajectory until it is popped or reaches its maximum alloted time. When popped, launches an opponent into the air.

Same usage as the j.214P bubble, except this one goes diagonally towards the ground, so is a safer bet for connecting with a crouching opponent.

j.214S - (Slash) Bubble Summon (45 dmg on pop). Must be in the air to summon. Upon summon, slowly moves downwards at a 75° downgrade trajectory until it is popped or reaches its maximum alloted time. Upon hitting the floor, bounces back up. When popped, launches an opponent into the air.

The interesting thing about this bubble is that it bounces off the floor, although how that is useful evades me at this point. Also, after tigerkneeing this bubble as low to the ground as possible, landing and summoning a spear (421) will not pop it (whereas the K bubble would have popped). If you ever find yourself in a situation where you want a bubble that travels downwards faster than j.214K, this is the one for you.

Force Break (FB)

j.214D - FB Bubble Summon (45 dmg on pop). Must be in the air to summon. Upon summon, homes in on the opponent and sticks to him until it is popped or reaches its maximum alloted time. When popped, launches an opponent into the air.

This is Dizzy's force break move. The recovery time after input is longer than the regular bubble summons. The bubble will quickly chase down an opponent and then "stick" to him, so is a great way to scare an opponent. Also, the hitbox to pop the FB bubble is bigger than the normal bubbles. I have only found two meaningful uses for using the FB bubble.

1. Use it to cover your landing. If you have just jumped out of a corner and airdashed away, usually the opponent will anticipate where you will land so that he can further pressure you. As a solution, jump out of the corner, airdash away, and then summon the FB bubble. That way, you can figure out where the opponent is below you by where your bubble travels to, and if he happens to be anywhere below you, just land with a j.2S to pop the bubble for a safe escape. Oftentimes he might not even block it, giving you a free combo.

2. Use it in conjunction with a spear summon (421) for added pressure. Simply summon the FB bubble, then summon the spear (holding down ), and once the bubble is near the opponent, release ]S[ and rush in.

421 - Spear/Air-Spike (25,55 dmg). A two-part attack. The first part (25 dmg) launches the opponent. Second part (55 dmg) homes in on the opponent. Hold down S to keep the spear in the air for up to 102 frames.

Unlike her fish summons, once Dizzy is hit her spear will disappear. Make sure to hold the spear as a means of making your opponent wary. If your opponent rushes in at you and you block their hit, let go of ]S[ and you will knock your opponent out of his pressure string. This is a great defensive tool. Use in conjunction with your other projectile summons to keep your opponent away. Also, note that if you've just summoned a bubble just above the ground, upon landing immediately summon a spear and the first attack of the spear will pop the bubble. If you've summoned a S bubble (j.214S), the spear will miss the bubble.

236S - (Slash) Scythe (20x3 dmg). Has an FRC point between frames 27-29. Can hit up to 3 times. Disappears after 3 hits, or when its trajectory is finished. Moves in a parabolic trajectory upwards, beginning with a small dip.

Comes out quite slowly, so be wary. Has a great use as air-control. Since it is a level 1 move, each hit of the scythe causes minimal blockstun, so is a good way of setting up tick throws (wait for the scythe to hit 3 times, then run up and throw). Also, this move is a good option to use at the end of a blocked pressure string (eg. 2K > c.S > 5H > 236S), since the opponent usually will not be able to act on reaction to punish you until the scythe is already out and in his face. FRC it to make the pressure even more solid.

236K - (Kick) Scythe (20x3 dmg). Has an FRC point between frames 27-29. Can hit up to 3 times. Disappears after 3 hits, or when its trajectory is finished. Moves in a sinusoidal trajectory, first going up then falling back down.

Similar to the S scythe, except rises into the air much quicker, and falls back to the ground shortly thereafter. The advantage of the K scythe is that if you are holding on a spear summon, you can throw out the K scythe without letting go of your spear. Also has an FRC point, which is very useful in keeping pressure (eg. 236K FRC > dash > 2P > 2P > (scythe hits) > dash > pressure/throw).

D. Overdrives (Supers)

632146S (:f::df::d::db::b::s:) - Imperial Ray (40xN dmg). Requires 50% tension. Has FRC point when she extends her arms. Freezes the screen for a while. Juggles an opponent across the screen and causes knockdown. Passes through projectiles. Disappears if Dizzy is hit.

Produces a high wall of bursting flames that starts right in front of Dizzy and goes all the way across the screen. This move is perfect for forcing an opponent to the other side of the screen, giving you a free opportunity to summon a fish afterwards. If it hits the opponent, chase him down and he will be juggled all the way into the corner, and oftentimes you can even combo him afterwards. Keep in mind that this overdrive does not give Dizzy much invincibility (she needs a full 5 frames after input), so don't use this overdrive when waking up to an opponent's meaty, as he can hit you out of it. If the opponent has already thrown out an attack and you do this overdrive, chances are you will exchange hits, causing your overdrive to disappear. A solution to this is to FRC it and block immediately, since its freezetime property allows you to do so. Additionally, you can utilize its freezetime capabilities to perform unblockables. Simply summon a spear (or fish), prime the overdrive motion, and when you see that the opponent is not in a blocking position, press :s: to freeze time and have your summon hit him. If done correctly, the opponent cannot block the attack.

632146P (:f::df::d::db::b::p:) - Necro Okotta Baai (0,34x6 dmg). Requires 50% tension. Makes Dizzy invincible during its startup. Is a throw. Causes knockdown.

Summons a large circle on the ground in front of Dizzy (can catch up to 1/2 screen away). If the opponent is standing in this area and does not jump, he will be sucked into it and locked in a coffin, whereby Dizzy pummels him with magic arrows. This overdrive has been nerfed from previous versions of Guilty Gear, as you are no longer invincible while the opponent is in the coffin, so if he some sort of projectile on the screen it will interrupt the overdrive. However, the input has been simplified so it is easier to execute on reaction. It is also an incredible anti-air: simply throw out the overdrive as the opponent is about to hit you from the air, as his attack will whiff right through you and land right into the overdrive's range. Note that if the opponent is in blockstun, the overdrive will not connect (as this would be too cheap).

64641236H (:f::b::f::b::db::d::df::f::h:) - Gamma Ray (13x3, 12x32 dmg). Requires 100% tension. Prorates 200%. First fires lasers (3 hits), then fires a huge beam (32 hits).

This overdrive is ah.... pretty much useless. Very slow startup, and doesn't hit opponents close or above you, so is also very unsafe. If it does connect (including the first hit to get that nice 200% proration) it does a decent amount of damage, but considering the tension required is definitely not worth it.

Instant Kill (IK)

[2]8462P+H ([:d:]:u::b::f::d::p:+:h:)

Has no use whatsoever in a practical match setting.

[back to top]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

---------------------------

IV. Learning to Play Dizzy

---------------------------

[back to top]

This section will cover all the aspects of learning Dizzy as a new character. Part A goes over the basic learning process, and part B will go into further detail on how to utilize Training Mode for maximum results.

A. Study Methods

The process of learning a new character is very subjective. Everyone may have their own opinion on what is the most effective method. Therefore, keep in mind that what I offer is my own personal view on the most efficient method to learning a new character. What I am about to reveal to you is my uber-secret 7-Steps to Success!:vbang:

1. Learn her moves

First and foremost, you must know what Dizzy can do. If you haven't already, read through Ch.1: Dizzy's Normals and Ch.2: Dizzy's Specials of my guide. Then, go into training mode and try each and every one of her moves for visual confirmation. This also helps to get hands-on experience in executing her specials. When you are trying each move, take note of the startup, active, and recovery frames of each move, including her specials and overdrives. More specifics on using Training Mode will be covered in part B.

2. Watch match videos

Once you know what Dizzy can do and how to do them, the next important step is to see them in action. The best way to do this is to watch match videos of good Dizzy players (usually means Japanese players). To my knowledge, the recent top Dizzy players consist of Kazuki, Makoto, H.H, and Miyako.

There is an abundance of match videos uploaded online, and it isn't too hard to find once you know where to look. Youtube has recently become a great resource for finding good quality match videos. You can also watch the combo videos for inspiration, but your main goal at this point is to stick to match videos. You can also browse our Video Section, as it is constantly updated with the latest match videos from Japan. In particular, visit the Video Posting Thread often, as well as the Youtube Thread.

When watching match videos, take note of how Dizzy moves around the screen, her zoning capabilities, when she does certain moves, when to throw out her summons, and how to use her summons to apply pressure. If you are able to understand more complicated things, also take note of what okizeme patterns she uses, her mixup/crossup abilities, how to keep an opponent pressured in a corner, and how to score a throw.

At this point, keep your focus on Dizzy and don't worry too much about watching Dizzy's opponent.

3. Learn basic combos

Learn what her basic gattling patterns are (look through my Gattling List under Chapter 2). Figure out her basic combos, and by basic I mean keep it simple. Don't try to do her fancier combos at this point of your learning process, as it will just stunt your growth by forcing you to memorize information you do not yet need.

Basic Ground Combo:
K/2K > c.S > 5H > 2H > 236H

Basic Air Combo:
2S (anti-air) > JC > ...
... j.K > j.S > JC > j.S > j.D
... j.(2)S > j.P > j.S > JC > j.S > j.D

Once you can do her basic combos, go on to the next section.

4. Play Arcade Mode

The main purpose of playing Arcade Mode is to get a feel for the cast of characters. Although you will not play against all of the cast in one pass through Arcade Mode, once you beat a character you won't have to face him again, meaning you will cycle through quite a few characters. Play Arcade Mode multiple times to ensure that you have experienced matchups all across the board.

Another purpose of Arcade Mode is in practicing your newly-learned combos in a live match environment. All players can attest to the fact that pulling off combos in a live match is harder than comboing a dummy in Training Mode.

Arcade Mode will also give you experience on watching your meters: life bar, guard gauge, burst meter, and tension bar.

Make sure to set the difficulty higher if you find them to be too easy.

5. Play against a human opponent

This is a very vital step in learning how to play your character. Only with live experience will you be able to build up your reaction time and your gameplay strategies. A human player plays nothing like the computer AI, and is much harder to defeat (unless inexperienced). If possible, record your matches so that you can review them later to see what you are doing right/wrong.

Another crucial benefit only found by playing against other players is in discovering your own bad habits. When you play against the computer AI a lot (or even against somebody you always play against), you build up a lot of habits that can be easily spotted by another player. For example, if you are prone to airdash forward after every TK bubble, the opponent will catch on quickly and punish you everytime they see you do a TK bubble. Only by playing against other players will you be able to spot your own patterns and bad habits, through punishment.

For some of you this option may not be available to you, either because you don't know anyone nearby who plays or because you don't know how to use stick (eg. you have a local arcade with GGXX:AC but you only know how to use a ps2 pad). In this case you will have to rely on watching match videos between two experienced players in hopes that it will transfer over when you play against a human opponent. For more information on theory fighting, see part B.

6. Watch more match videos

Anytime is a good time to watch match videos! At this point in your development, you want to watch more match videos (even the ones you have already seen), except this time extend your focus to Dizzy's opponent. Note how they react to what Dizzy does, how they attempt to dodge her projectile summons, and how they are able to get in at Dizzy to figure out where the holes in her pressure are. Also note character specifics, such as what different characters can do and when they do them. On the other hand, also watch how Dizzy does her zoning, how she escapes certain pressure strings, etc.

7. Watch combo videos

Now that you have successfully completed all the previous steps, you are now free to watch as many combo videos as you want! Watching combo videos is a great way to discover cool-looking combos without having to come up with them on your own. However, keep in mind that there are many other combo possibilities outside of those shown in the videos, and it is up to you to discover them on your own through Training Mode (personally my favorite use of Training Mode :yaaay: ).

B. Capitalizing on Training Mode

Training mode is your dojo! This is where you will be spending hours upon hours refining your technique to perfection. Training mode is paramount to honing your skills and making you a solid player that stands out from the crowd. It is also a research lab where you can create your own unique combos, mixups, and everything in-between.

Training Mode Tools

There are so many tools available in TM that will enable you to experiment to your heart's desire. Here are a few of the important ones. Record/Playback: TM has given you the power to record the opponents inputs for up to 15 seconds, and then replay those inputs, all at the push of a button! Just hit <start>, go to your key config, and set which buttons you would like to use for recording and playback. Instant Reset: the <select> button will instantly reset both you and the opponent to your default locations, as well as resetting all your meters. Teching: you can set whether or not you want your opponent to tech forwards, backwards, neutral, or not at all, in addition to setting when they will tech. Just hit start and go to your enemy's options, and you will see these options under "recovery". Display: you can set the screen to display your inputs, as well as your damage. It is usually best to set the display on both. Other options: you can control basically all aspects of your opponent's properties, such as if he's standing, crouching, jumping, whether or not he's blocking, the types of block, whether or not your attack will score a CH, etc. You can set his life to automatically regain or not, how much life he starts out with, and a myriad of other settings. I'll leave it up to you to figure out the rest.

Here is a list of how to utilize TM to hone your skills. I think it is worth mentioning that this is the TM version of my uber-secret 7-Steps to Success!:vbang:

1. Practicing Motional Execution

If you are unfamiliar with the game, practice moving around: dashing, back-dashing, air dashing, IADing, ADing very low to the ground, and SJing.

After you have familiarized yourself with moving around, practice doing her specials and overdrives. Make sure that you practice them facing towards the right and facing towards the left. You may discover that doing it one way might be harder than the other.

2. Practicing Anti-Airs

Knowing how to anti-air is a very important step to learning Dizzy. The easiest way to do this is to set the opponent to jump towards you and attack when they are in range. Make sure to select an appropriate air-to-ground attack for the opponent, which you can find by watching match videos or playing against the computer / human opponent. In return, find out which anti-air attack is best suited for countering the opponent (read through Ch.2: Dizzy's Normals to see which moves are good anti-airs). Then figure out how to followup your anti-air, either with a followup combo or whatever else you think best fits the situation... which is usually a combo:v:

3. Practicing Blocking

Blocking is fundamental to every character, but especially for Dizzy due to her weak defense. To get the most out of TM, record the opponent to do a basic combo string (if possible, one that involves both high and low attacks), then play it back and try to block it, which should be a piece of cake. If you are new and don't know any other character's combo strings, then skip this step. Then, go to your enemy's options and set him on CPU, making sure to crank his skill level to the max. Now try to block all of his attacks without breaking your guard.

Another important habit to build up is learning to FD block when you are in the air and the opponent is on the ground. All ground-based normals have to be FD blocked when you are air-borne (keep in mind that some moves, such as uppercuts and Axl's Kokuugeki, must also be FD blocked even though it's not a ground-based normal). A good way to build up this habit is to pick Sol as your opponent and record him doing a Volcanic Viper (623H). Then, jump towards him and press the playback button, making sure to FD block before his hit connects. See if you can FD block it on "reaction" (not really on reaction since you know it is coming).

4. Practicing Combos

One of the most obvious uses of TM is to practice combos that you know, or even come up with new ones. Make sure that you have set your opponent to tech forward or back (not neutral) in order to figure out if he will be able to tech out of your combo before you finish it. You can also look for the word BEAT that will appear onscreen as you are doing your combo, and if your combo does not work the word will turn dark. For practicing air-combos, set your opponent on jump so you can start it off more easily.

Practicing combos also involves committing them to muscle memory. Repeat the same combo multiple times to make sure you have it down. Did you combo him on the right side? Now do it on the left. Think you got the combo down? See if you can do it three times in a row without screwing up. Then do the same on the other side of the opponent, for a total of 6 perfect consecutive combos. If at any time you screw up, start all over again. Easier said than done, eh?

If you have successfully completed this process, do it all over again on a different character, and so on until you have gone through the entire cast. The same combo usually does not work on every character, and you must tweak the combo to suit the character you are comboing. This is especially true for air-combos, as many characters differ in their weight and hitbox.

5. Practicing FRCs

In order to play Dizzy, you must get down her FRCs. It is way too important to her game, so the sooner you learn her FRCs, the sooner you become a solid player. However, I have heard from many people that her icespike (236H) FRC is possibly the hardest one in the game to learn. Therefore I will go over some of the essentials of utilizing TM to learn FRCs.

First of all, make sure that you have your input display on. Hit start, and under display, change it to BOTH, which will display both input and damage. Second, put your tension on infinite so you never run out. Now do an FRC-able move (I suggest starting with 2H). You will notice that sometime after doing the move your input bar will temporarily flash blue for a split second. This is when you are supposed to input the FRC (actually, it first flashes white and then blue, and you are supposed to input your FRC during the white flash. However, my TV is too crappy for me to verify if this is actually the case, and doesn't matter much since you won't be able to tell the difference in timing anyway). After you have learned the FRC timing of the move from the flash on the input bar, remove the input bar and see if you can still do the FRC. You can use a variety of indicators for remembering a move's FRC timing, such as keeping an eye on Dizzy's animation, listening in on the sounds, or just simply committing the timing to memory through a silent count. When it comes to FRCs, no amount of practice is too much.

Once you get a feel for how FRCs work, move on to learning her hardest FRC, which is the icespike. "If at first you don't succeed...":vbang:

6. Practicing Pressure

The best offense is the one that lasts the longest. Coincidentally, no offense is perfect. There is no way to continuously dish out a fool-proof pressure string on an opponent, meaning that there will always be holes in your pressure which your opponent can use to escape. Therefore, a good practice is to learn where these holes are so you can catch your opponent trying to use them as a means of escaping. This is a prime example of theory fighting (imagining how an opponent would react to your pressure).

The best way to find holes in your pressure is by playing against yourself :?:. Set your opponent to be Dizzy, making sure that both you and her are in block mode (player and enemy settings). Figure out a pressure string, then record the opponent Dizzy to do the pressure string on you. Then hit <select>, hit the playback button, and try to escape from the pressure.

A good way to start this off is throw out all your projectile summons. First, set the opponent on block, back up to your side of the screen, and then start summoning fishes, spears, scythes, bubbles... the works (ex. 214H~H, 421, 236K, ]S[, 2147K). Once you have a projectile pattern down, record the opponent to do it. Then hit <select>, hit the playback button, and try to escape from the pressure. This is a great way to figure out how each projectile summon controls what area of the screen, and when.

Once you know more complicated pressure strings, follow the same method to find the holes.

7. Practicing Okizeme

Practicing okizeme consists of two purposes: 1) to find out if the okizeme will catch a waking opponent with a successful meaty, and 2) discovering new ways to mixup an opponent with highs/lows or crossups. The latter is another example of theory fighting (imagining how an opponent would block your attacks).

The first part is quite easy. Simply record an opponent to hold jump-back (if he is on your right side = :uf:, on your left = :ub:) for at least a couple seconds. Then, score that knockdown, hit the playback button, and unleash your okizeme. If the opponent is able to jump out and escape your meaty attack, try it again a couple more times to see if you just have bad timing. If he continues to successfully jump out of the meaty, chances are your okizeme has failed.

The second part is slightly more complicated. As with practicing pressure, you have to set your opponent as Dizzy in order to record with her. After you think you have come up with a new okizeme pattern that has tricky high/low or crossover mixups, record the opponent to do it on you. Then, hit <select> and play it back, seeing if it is easy for you to block the mixups/crossups. This is a good way to gauge if the okizeme pattern has any merit.

--------------------------

TIP: How to cancel 2D into ground-based specials

First of all, I do not yet know of any scientifically-proven facts or methods about cancelling Dizzy's 2D into specials. Having said that, I will tell you the method I use.

The secret to this technique is in the timing of when you attempt to cancel her 2D into the special. There is a small interval of about 3 frames (estimate, about 1/4 of a second) between the moment after your 2D connects and the time when you are able to cancel with a special, after which you are able to cancel with a tigerkneed ground-based special. If you do the tigerknee input too soon, the special fails and instead you get a jump. Example: trying to cancel 2D into K fish summon (2147K) too soon will result in a tigerkneed K bubble.

Also an important fact to take into consideration is timing the tigerknee motion properly. Since 2D is JC-able, if your timing is off you will end up canceling with a jump instead of the ground-based special you wanted. There is a very small window between the moment you hit up and the moment you actually JC from 2D (I believe it to be about 2 frames). You're aiming to finish the special move's input during this small window of opportunity, so that you don't end up JCing instead. This is akin to jump installing. In fact, I think that this new class of cancel should be called just that: Jump Install Cancels.

[back to top]

Edited by bizarro

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

--------------------------------

V. Dizzy's Gameplay Strategies

--------------------------------

[back to top]

In order to play Dizzy effectively, you must understand her weaknesses so that you can cover them. Chief among her weaknesses is that she has very poor defense. The meaning is threefold: 1) she takes a lot of damage, 2) she has no viable reversals except for her 632146P overdrive, and 3) she is the easiest character to dizzy, which means she will get instant killed a lot. Once an opponent has you pressured in the corner, you will most likely remain in that corner for quite a while, unless you try something risky (FD jumping, poking), or simply DAA or burst. Furthermore, Dizzy has a huge hitbox which makes it easy for her to get hit and combod. Therefore you must play smart and avoid dangerous situations that will get you trapped in a corner.

In return, capitalize on her strengths in order to both cover her weaknesses and make up for them. The following will go over what I perceive to be her greatest strengths.

Escaping

One of Dizzy's specialties is escaping. Dizzy's ability to air-dash twice in the air helps her to accomplish this. In addition, her bubble can be used to keep her in the air longer, and also act as a threat to make the opponent wary of approaching too close.

The following list shows all of Dizzy's air-zoning abilities:

1. jump > doublejump > airdash
2. jump > doublejump > airdash > bubble
3. jump > doublejump > bubble > airdash
4. jump > bubble > doublejump > airdash
5. jump > bubble > jump > airdash > bubble *
6. jump/superjump > airdash > bubble > airdash
7. jump/superjump > bubble > airdash > airdash
8. superjump > bubble > back-airdash > airdash > bubble **
* You must pop the 1st bubble during your doublejump (use j.P) in order to summon the 2nd.

** You must summon the 1st bubble at the height of your superjump and pop the 1st bubble during your back-airdash (use 44 > j.S) in order have enough time for the second airdash and bubble.

2, 6 (SJ), and 7 (SJ) are all good ways to escape from a corner, especially if you use her FB bubble (j.214D) since it will home in on your opponent.

Another strategy many Dizzy players like to use as an escape tool is to IAD back, summon a bubble, then AD back while popping the bubble with a j.S. This makes use of the bubble as a shield for her second back AD, oftentimes letting her land to safely throw out a fish summon. Or you could IAD back > bubble > j.K > (land) > 421 instead. Or you could IAD back, then AD forward with j.2S > j.H to catch an opponent off guard and gain a free combo. Try it out yourself to see which ones are more useful depending on the situation.

As a general rule, always mix it up to keep the opponent guessing.

If you have any escape tools I haven't yet listed, I'll happily add them in.

Projectiles

By projectiles, I don't mean sitting back spamming fireballs all day (for that you'll have to play Ky Kiske). Instead I am referring to her ability to summon all sorts of projectiles onto the screen, which can intimidate your opponents quite effectively.

Her fish summons are arguably her best option, as not only are they useful in pressuring and attacking, but oftentimes eat the hit intended for Dizzy, letting you turn an opponent's pressure string into one of your own. Her spear/airspike is great for keeping an opponent wary of when you will release it, letting you setup other summons while holding the spear. Both of her scythes are a good way to buy time for you to retreat, summon something else, or continue your pressure (especially if you FRC them).

Many times an opponent will just start jumping around trying to dodge all the stuff you throw out, which gives you an opportunity to run up to where they will land and throw out an anti-air (f.S and 6H if you are far, 6P if you are close, and 2S if you are right below them). Or, if they expect you to attack and go into FD block, you could run up and airthrow them. Mix it up to keep your opponent guessing.

Remember that it takes time for her to summon, so make sure that you are in a safe position to throw one out, ie. a good distance away. Be wary, however, as some characters are adept at punishing you from the other side of the screen.

Also, use your summons in conjunction with one another. One great example is 214P~H > 421, as the fish will act as a shield while you throw out your spear summon. I've covered this option in Chapter 3 of this guide.

Okizeme

This is Dizzy's greatest strength, and I believe that her whole gameplan revolves around her okizeme. Dizzy has one of the strongest okizeme in the game, so make good use of it. In the corner, her okizeme sets her up for many different high/low mixups. Midscreen, her okizeme options are even scarier: she can setup high/low mixups and all sorts of crossups.

Her okizeme starts once she scores a knockdown on the opponent. There are chiefly 5 ways this can happen: off a throw, airthrow (distance specific), 2H, 2D, or 236H (icespike). If you score a hit, try to end the combo with a knockdown so that you can setup your okizeme. If your opponent blocks very skillfully, you may have to rely on getting off a throw (see my Tick Throw chapter).

Many times it is a better idea to end a combo with a knockdown instead of continuing the combo for extra damage but sacrificing the knockdown. An exception to this could be if the extra damage from a continued combo would be enough to finish off an opponent.

Throws

Because of her many summon capabilities, Dizzy can utilize them to scare an opponent into blocking. Once an opponent is in block mode, throws are much easier to pull off. Additionally, having projectile summons flying around can mask your incentive to throw, as they act as a sort of camouflage. And once you get a successful throw, your okizeme game begins! Read the Tick Throw chapter for advice on how to pull off a successful throw.

Damage

Dizzy has the potential to cause grievous harm to an opponent through her combos, so this is definitely one of her strengths. It usually only takes 2 proper combos to deplete an opponent's lifebar to a tiny fraction. Anything else I should add here?

[back to top]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

---------------------------

VI. Basic Okizeme Setups

---------------------------

[back to top]

If you haven't figured it out yet, Dizzy's greatest strength is her okizeme. Once she scores that knockdown, Dizzy has a huge arsenal of projectile summons, not to mention her double airdash ability and her new j.2S attack, to put incredible pressure sequences on the opponent before he even gets up! Knowing the basic principles behind her okizeme as well as a few textbook examples of tried-and-true okizeme patterns will greatly strengthen your game. Dizzy is definitely not known for her defense, so you probably knew what kind of playstyle you were going for when you picked Dizzy as your main (or even as a side project).

There are chiefly five ways to begin your okizeme game. They begin after an icespike*, a 2H*, a 2D*, a throw, or an airthrow. All of them are proven ways to knockdown an opponent, and once you have that knockdown, your okizeme begins.

*only causes knockdown when opponent is grounded (or near the ground in the case of icespike)

----------------

After Icespike

----------------

----------------

After 2H

----------------

----------------

After 2D

----------------

----------------

After Throw

----------------

[MIDSCREEN]

----------------

After Airthrow

----------------

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

-----------------------

VII. Tick Throw Setups

-----------------------

[back to top]

Tick throwing is the art of tricking your opponent into getting thrown. This usually implies that the opponent has switched to a blocking mentality, giving you the opportunity to walk up and throw. The two main techniques involved in tick throwing are 1) using a quick move with low recovery to force your opponent into a short blockstun, thus giving them minimal time to react to the actual throw, and 2) using pressure to force your opponent into blocking, then throw them during a hole in your pressure string in which he is still expecting to block.

The easiest way to set up a tick throw attempt is during okizeme, since your opponent will have to block on wakeup and usually will not try to attack. Since you can confirm that your opponent will be in block mode, you can focus on setting up your tick throw.

In this section I will mainly focus on tick throw setups off of knockdown situations, as this is the most conventional method for explaining tick throw techniques. A short explanation of the tick throw setup will follow after each listing.

NOTE: remember that you cannot throw while running, so you must break your run before you attempt a throw. You can either break your run with an FD block or simply let go of forward for a split second; however, FD breaking is faster, especially during short dashes.

[MIDSCREEN]

After throw...

214H~H > IAD > (laser) > AD > j.2S > j.H > (land) > c.S > (2nd laser) > dash > throw

Same pattern as her basic midscreen okizeme. The IAD crosses up the opponent, and the AD is back towards him. After the c.S, wait until the 2nd laser hits, then dash in and throw. The opponent should recover from the laser blockstun just as you are within range to throw.

214H~S > IAD > (laser) > AD > j.2S > j.H > (land) > dash > c.S > (2nd laser whiff) > throw

Make sure to dash in after you land so you have that forward momentum. I've written c.S instead of the usual 2P or 2K for a few reasons. First, c.S is more misleading since it isn't usually used for tick throw. Second, it gives you a +1 frame advantage so that you can mixup the throw with something else (for example, if he FD blocked your c.S so that you are pushed back too far, you can follow up with a 2H FRC after the recovery of c.S to bait a counterhit). Also, since c.S is done in a standing position and your opponent will expect the usual laser to hit afterwards, it is much harder for him to realize you are going for a throw attempt.

214H~(x) > IAD > (laser) > AD > (land) > throw

Similar pattern to her basic midscreen okizeme, so the opponent will expect AD > j.2S > j.H.

214H~H > IAD > (laser) > AD > (short delay) > j.2S > j.H(whiffed) > (land) > throw

Similar pattern to her basic midscreen okizeme, except that the short delay before the j.2S will cause the j.H to whiff even though the animation comes out, tricking the opponent into expecting to block and giving you a chance to throw.

214H~P > 421 > (laser) > IAD > ]S[ j.2S , j.K > (land) > (1st bite) > dash > (2P) > throw

Laser fish will serve as the meaty. Let go of ]S[ right after you IAD and immediately throw out the j.2S so that he will be kept in blockstun. The j.2S will hit him from the same side, momentum will carry you over to the other side while the spear hits, then use j.K as you are falling. The fish will bite when you land, and you want to dash in and throw him after he recovers from the bite. You could also add a 2P after the 1st bite and have time for a throw before the 2nd bite.

dash > 214P~H > jump(over) > (1st bite) > j.2S > (land) > (2nd bite) > dash > 2K > throw

After the throw, run up so that you are close to the opponent to summon the fish. As you jump over, the 1st bite will hit from the same side you were on, then he will have a very short window of recovery so that the j.2S will cross him up. This setup works because he must focus on a crossup high attack into a low attack, which usually forces an opponent into block mode.

After 2D...

2147K > j.K > (land) > dash > throw

Tigerknee a bubble from the 2D, then pop it before you land. The bubble pop will be too early so it should whiff the opponent on his wakeup, but he will most likely still be in block mode so that you can just run up and throw.

[CORNER]

After throw...

(short delay) > 214K~(x) > 421S > (bite) > dash > throw

A slight variation of my favorite #Reload setup (which worked after an icespike). After you throw, time a short delay depending on how far away you are from the opponent and his character's wakeup time so that your 214K will hit on wakeup. Immediately summon the spear without holding so that as you dash in, the spear will also fly towards your opponent, ensuring that he will be blocking. You will have a short window between the fish bite and the spear hitting for you to throw, which happens right as you reach your throw range. If you find the timing too difficult, just hold so that you have more time between the bite and the spear to throw.

After icespike...

214H/S > dash > throw

421 > dash > throw

These two examples are the basic corner-tick-throw setups, where the opponent thinks that you're dashing in for a meaty (2K) but instead eats a throw. The 214S setup can act as a safety in case the opponent is expecting your throw and tries to jump out (--Merilyn). However, keep in mind that the 214S fish has a longer recovery period than the 214H fish by 5 frames.

214H~P > IAD > j.2S , (laser) , j.K > (land) > throw

Make sure to j.2S immediately after your IAD so that you have enough time to throw out the j.K before you land. The beginning of this okizeme pattern is usually used for a high/low mixup, so that j.K should throw him off enough for you to land, walk forward a bit, and throw.

214K~P > dash > 2K > (bite) > dash > throw

The usual okizeme of 214H is instead replaced with 214K, which comes out faster and causes shorter blockstun than the laser, so has the potential for tricking the opponent into blocking the usual 2K > c.S (after the usual laser hits), but instead eats your throw.

421S > 214K~P > (spear hits) > dash > 2K > (bite) > dash > throw

This setup isn't completely foolproof, as most characters can escape the initial air-spike on their wakeup. However, if they are caught blocking it, then this setup is quite useful.

dash > 214P~P > 2P , (1st bite) , 5K > 2147K > (2nd bite) > j.S > (bubble pop) > (land) > (3rd bite) > dash > 2P > throw

The timing for this is very strict. After the icespike, dash in until you are just out of throw range to summon your fish combination. If he FD blocks your 2P and 5K, you may be knocked back too far for your bubble pop to hit, but even so your opponent usually will still remain blocking. You will have the opportunity to throw just a split second before the 4th bite hits, making this a fairly difficult setup to do successfully. By the same token, since it looks like the 4th bite will hit, this setup should work quite well.

If your opponent is blocking...

5H/2H > 236S > dash > throw

An opponent has the potential to punish you before your 236S scythe comes out, so don't rely on this too much. The 5H/2H is intended to keep him in a long blockstun so that he has minimal time to escape before the scythe comes out. As he is blocking the three hits of the scythe, dash in and throw him right after the 3rd hit. Try to time it so that you reach your throw range just as he is recovering from the 3rd hit, which should only put him in a very short blockstun. This is a corner setup, and for midscreen purposes is inferior as the opponent can just jump or backdash away from the scythe.

[back to top]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update (4/19/2008): Alphabetized Chapter 1 (definitions), which makes finding keywords much easier, especially after being linked through clicking a highlighted keyword in the guide.

Update (4/19/2008): Changed the tip on how to cancel 2D into specials. I think it is now better explained, at least in the way I see it.

Update (4/20/2008): Changed 2D tip into the 420 version :toot:

~BTW, inputs are encouraged and appreciated! Please tell me if I have any mistakes, if I am missing vital information, or if you think your methods are better!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Extra Space

EDIT: lol, you didn't have to edit out this post! I already combined the contents of your previous post into this one... oh well. Best thing I can do now is to quote your deleted topic into this post. -bizarro

Throw Setups~

1. hold air spike, dash, FD throw

2. S fish, dash, FD throw

3. ERROR_404

4. H/any fish, dash, 2P, 2P, 2K, dash, FD throw

5. MIDSCREEN: H/any fish, IAD, j.S (or j.H/j.2s), land, dash, throw

6. CORNER: H/any fish, IAD, j.2S, j.K, land, throw

7. CORNER: H/P fish, dash, 2K, dash, 5K, 2S, jc.P, ad.2S, throw

8. CORNER: H/P fish, dash, 2K, dash, 5K, 2S, jc.P, ad.2S, IAD, j.2S, throw

9. CORNER: P/P fish, dash, 2K, dash, FD, walk throw

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Necro Okotta Baai if jumped

Correct any of them if they're ineffective. D:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah good idea, I'll probably include a tick throw section. I've got a shitload of setups that I can contribute with.

5. MIDSCREEN: H/any fish, IAD, j.S (or j.H/j.2s), land, dash, throw

With a whiffed aerial, the have too much time in-between the moment the laser hits and you landing and running up to them, so when you rush in they will most likely poke you out or simply escape.

6. CORNER: H/any fish, IAD, j.2S, j.K, land, throw

The laser will hit after j.2S and before j.K, the j.K is a sort of deceptive "am-I-going-low" move that will make the opponent hesitate, so this one works quite well

7. CORNER: H/P fish, dash, 2K, dash, 5K, 2S, jc.P, ad.2S, throw

I'm not sure about these two, but the air dash should be done close to the ground and allow you to j.H after j.2S. I'm not experienced on this one. It's probably better off if you j.H after the j.2S, though. This is why I need help with debating on tick throws--I don't wanna give a wrong setup~

I wouldn't rely on this one too much, since the timing of the bite on the P fish followup is such that after the 5K > 2S > JC > j.P (which will whiff since most opponents will be crouching), the bite will happen as you are still on the upward ascension of your jump, so by the time you are low enough to AD > j.2S the opponent will have had plenty of time to either 1) anti-air you, or 2) jump out

9. CORNER: P/P fish, dash, 2K, dash, FD, walk throw

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Necro Okotta Baai if jumped

Off a knockdown.

If you have combod your opponent into a knockdown in the corner (ie. ending with icespike), you must dash in so that you are close enough for your P fish summon to hit with its limited range. As such, you won't have enough time to dash in afterwards, as you must immediately throw out a poke to prevent the opponent from escaping. But you could do icespike > dash in > 214P > 2K > dash in > throw

Anyway, thanks for your inputs. I'm predicting that I'll get a tick throw section up and running by this Wednesday, so don't worry too much about it for now :v:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure scythe -> FD throw works as well. And I have to comment on this. D; "64641236H - Gamma Ray (???? dmg). Requires 100% tension. Prorates 200%. This overdrive is ah.... pretty much useless. Very slow startup, and doesn't hit opponents close or above you, so is also very unsafe. If it does connect (including the first hit to get that nice 200% proration) it does a decent amount of damage, but considering the tension required is definitely not worth it." Totally ownage in the first hundred levels of survival mode. Dash, burst, gamma ray, do 5 hits, HERE COMES DAREDEVIL. =( ... Yeah, it's pretty much useless. zz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, if you do the S scythe and the hits connect you can run up and attempt a throw since the scythe is only level 1, meaning minimal blockstun. I've already explained this technique under the descriptions for 236S btw I know I said I'd get the tick throw section up by wednesday (and now it's thursday) so ah.... maybe by friday.... yeah....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Man I'm gonna be reading this when I wake up and try to apply everything when I play my local. I've been having some dumb luck and trouble executing some things. I hope this really helps because I hate quitting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hm. I feel like 214S serves better as a laser fish in the corner when you're tick throwing right after. This is mainly because if the opponent jumps, he/she'll have to block the high laser fish. He/she can punish you from a whiffed 6H, and that's not a good thing. Of course, 214H should still be used sometimes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry had a midterm today, been studying.

Hm. I feel like 214S serves better as a laser fish in the corner when you're tick throwing right after. This is mainly because if the opponent jumps, he/she'll have to block the high laser fish. He/she can punish you from a whiffed 6H, and that's not a good thing.

Have you tried this? It sounds nice on paper, but I'm worried about the extra frames of recovery after 214S vs. 214H might give them time to jump/poke, or even change their mentality from block mode -> escape mode (although for chars like Abba the delay might actually be beneficial). I'll try it out sometime and see if it works or not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It worked well in Reload and it still works pretty nicely in AC for me. I prefer to have a safe air than ground. I've been punished more for doing H fish instead of S. They're both still good options for tick throws, though. Edit: How about misc. notes for specific characters? Example: 1. Strategies and things to consider (what to do for RO's delayed wake-up). 2. Frames and hit boxes (Pot's high box is much larger and able to (f)S).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Edit: How about misc. notes for specific characters?

Example:

1. Strategies and things to consider (what to do for RO's delayed wake-up).

2. Frames and hit boxes (Pot's high box is much larger and able to (f)S).

Ey! Yes well I never really did my oki or combo section because I thought Nehle already has threads for those... but um... yeah to be honest I don't have extensive char exp. but I have fooled around with both roboky and potemkin.

1. Roboky's delayed wakeup - after a throw, try 214K~H. If he delays, the H fish is late enough to act as a meaty, and if he doesn't delay, the K fish will also act as a meaty, so it's a win-win situation.

2. Potemkin - potemkin has some very fun corner-bubble-loop combos :D Also, since his hitbox is so huge even when crouch-blocking, you can oftentimes get away with an IAD > j.2S > j.H which should still hit him even if he's crouching.

I know these aren't very specific, but if you have any further questions about details I might be able to help :)

EDIT: Oh yeah a char-specific chapter would be pretty cool, BUT there is already a matchup thread out there and I'm thinking that's where things of that nature should go... i think...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, it was a suggestion to maybe compile a list of strategies from the Matchup thread (no one wants to browse through 12 pages of matchups every time to find some good information) AND add some missing notes that you or others can possibly think of.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Um hi! I'm playing Dizzy for a long time now, but on the console, I want some good advice on switching to the arcade, especially the Directional inputs regarding Dizzy. I went to our local Arcade yesterday and I won 1 of 3 matches of their veteran Anji player; ; It seems that I'm having trouble IADing and running. FRCes are no problem! I thought they were going to be hard but it seems they are really easy. The most problems that are bugging is the IADing and dashing after the Ice Spike FRC >< Everytime I end combo with Ice Spike and I FRC it, I wanna dash to continue but after the FRC Dizzy just normally walks; ; Any hints/tips from you Dizzy players? Sorry for the trouble and thanks in advance ^^; Oh and this is my second experience with the arcades, my first was with one of the Street Fighters game like 5-6 years ago ._.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From my experience, IAD and dashes get easier as you continue playing. It's pretty difficult at first, so try and practice. Get your finger motions to adjust to the stick you're playing with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

×