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The "Help Using a Joystick" Thread

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I have a similar stick (Hori RAP NA-SA), and 236236/214214 can be an execution nightmare until you've completely locked it down in muscle memory. Try feeling out all eight points and checking the input log; while it's possible it's a stick issue, my first guess is execution, if only because I'm working through the same thing. (P1 side is way weaker than P2, so it's just a matter of practise.) Of course, I am an utter novice, so... I don't know how much comfort it is to know that I have the same issue.

For me, 2 is the hardest number, so 22 inputs are something I've been drilling. I don't know how the Hori sticks compare to MadCatz in hand, but from video, it seems like it's harder to ride the gate, so you have to be on point with those 21s and 23s. I was going to suggest taking the QCs slowly and checking against input log as well -- also be careful with button presses, as coming in too fast can wreck you. Knowing what the game accepts (24214X, for example) can also help you tighten up execution, or at least it did in my case.

Assuming it's not a stick issue, I'd drill those damn 214214/236236 motions until you've got them solid. I have a move that side swaps, so I do reps of 214214-236236 until I have "x" number executed perfectly, non-consecutive strings don't count. I can feel the instant I've botched the input, usually due to raising my speed and subsequent sloppiness. I do a dash to chunk the input log, then repeat. Once you've tightened up the double QCs, start working that part of the combo.

If I had to guess, I'd guess that you're trying to do 214214/226236 quickly during the combo and speed is triggering mistakes. Yes, you need to be quick, but watch those 2s or you'll add a 1 or 3, possibly skip the 2 entirely.

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Is it normal for a balltop to be rotatable? I bought a Hori Fighting Edge ~2 weeks ago and this is one of the things that really annoy me. Sometimes the balltop slips out of my hand during quartercycles.

 

Note: I usually hold the stick with two fingers on one side of the lever and two fingers on the other side while the thumb is used to grab the balltop, together fith the index finger. Should I try another technique?

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Balltops should not rotate.  Something is loose in there somewhere. (They do screw on, and can come loose.  If this happens a LOT and bothers you, you may need to glue it.)

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Uh, sticks do rotate. The entire thing, not just the balltop. If it's just the balltop rotating then you may need to tighten it but it's the entire shaft that's just the design.

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Okay, maybe it is the entire stick. I can't tell, because of this tiny pipe, which covers everything but the balltop. I think I will open it up and check out if it's the stick or the balltop.

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Switching from American to Japanese stick is more frustrating for me than when I switched from pad to american stick years back.

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How do you do a forward normal from a crouch block / Poking with a forward normal after a crouch block)? On my case, it always gets registered as a 1236. I just want to do 16

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How do you do a forward normal from a crouch block / Poking with a forward normal after a crouch block)? On my case, it always gets registered as a 1236. I just want to do 16

 

Be sure you release the stick to neutral before pushing forward?  Let the spring do the work for you.

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Yeah, as someone who got a stick like...literally two days ago, it's a really good thing to just be patient and don't mash. Like I know that's really simple advice, but it helps.

 

I had trouble doing even simple goddamn fireballs because I was always like 23A6, then I remembered to not mash like crazy. Just let go of the stick, let it return to neutral, and then press 6 and whatever attack you need. There's no need to manhandle the stick for EVERYTHING.

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Depending on which parts you use, old-style American sticks are known for having the linear button layout, concave buttons, and bat top sticks.

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There's that nice Slagcoin page that talks about the differences. I've seen people say that some of the numbers on that page aren't quite right, but I dunno anything about that.

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The basic differences, IMHO, are that american sticks tend to have bat tops, and much more resistance, whereas japanese sticks use ball tops and require less force.

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The only problem i had with transitioning to a stick is that i would always neutral jump instead of a directional jump, because i would hit the up microswitch before the right one for like 1 frame. I've mostly got rid of the problem, now though in games with air dashes where an up direction will cancel the air dash command i am fucking up on. So instead of doing 956, i'm doing 9856. I know VSAV is like this and i think GG is the same way as well. Same sort of problem as before except where i would hit up a frame earlier than right/left, i am now leaving the right/left microswitch a frame earlier than the up one when going back to neutral.

 

I know there is probably not much to do to help except to just practice it over and over again; i'm just kinda venting at this point.

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I've been playing on a Qanba Q4RAF for about 2 years and I'm not sure if this is an exectuion problem or not: I keep messing up the up-left diagonal (Or 7 on numpad) and for some reason this happens more often in ArcSys games and doesn't happen much in games like Skullgirls or UNIEL. Sometimes when I'm having an intense match I end up accidentally doing a neutral jump instead of a 7 jump that I wanted to do. I'm worried if this is a problem with a stick or just bad execution.

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Anyone have one of these? And if so, how do you like it? I'm not that hot on the colors, but I could eventually swap some stuff out. HORI Real Arcade Pro V4 Hayabusa for PlayStation 3 and 4

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L6AVN5E/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3TQ1BQ7HNQW9V&coliid=IMMSZ5CNZQHQN

 

Tried them. Hayabusa stick is awesome and highly responsive. I could get used to it in just 5 minutes (I mainly use Seimitsu). The Kuro buttons are less sensible than Sanwa (something that's very welcome for me).

 

The stick may look small, but it's heavy enough to use it with no problem and transport it. I definitely recommend it if.

 

I am currently waiting for my HRAP V4 Hayabusa with silent parts. I'll you guys know how it is when it arrives (hopefully today).

 

 

cyanprime, the problem (IMO) with that stick is the weight. 1 pound is too damned light for a fightstick.

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Guys, I finally tested Hori V4 Hayabusa Silent Blue for 3 hours (GGXrd, Skullgirls):

 

-Well, first of all... THE HAYABUSA STICK IS THE SH*T. One of the most responsive sticks for fighters I've tried in a while, without being over sensible (unlike Sanwa). Being a Seimitsu user, I got no problem in getting used to it. Heck, even the rectangular restrictor wasn't an issue because of how it responds (I usually use an octagonal restrictor)

-The Kuro buttons (silent version) are harder than your average Sanwas (not as hard as Seimitsu). No problem with them either, though it was funny for me to try to get used to their quiet functionality (sometimes I thought I didn't press anything because I didn't hear the "clic" lmao)

-The stick itself is kinda small, compared to others (not as small as, let's say, a Madcatz SE). However, its heavy enough to stay in its play (more than 2kg). If you want portability, it's perfect.

-The rest of the buttons (Share, L3, L3, etc) are generic buttons. Nothing to add here, except that it was nice of them to actually consider those extra buttons for training, but...

-Its only flawl: THEY FORGOT TO ADD A BUTTON TO "CLIC" THE TOUCHPAD. So yes, if you want to reset your position in Xrd, you'll have to enter the Pause menu.

 

IMO it's worth the 15,000y it costs, and considering the offer of PS4 sticks is still quite limited, it's a nice alternative.

 

Just in case anyone needs to know, the V4 Hayabusa with "normal" buttons is mostly the same, except that buttons click :v:

 

anything else, please let me know and I'll see what I can do.

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The only stick I was ever able to find and get in Alaska without extremely high shipping was a Pelican PS2 stick with 8 buttons and turbo. I've had it probably 10 years now and I have never been able to do QCF motions without jumping (same problem with analog sticks on PS2 and Xbox and Xbox Dpad), unless the stick was in my right hand, which makes it very uncomfortable to play. I've been just using a PS2 controller for the Dpad and dealing with the blister and callous cycle on my left thumb if I've wante dot play games with this sort of input. Apparently a stick on the right can be custom built, but getting it to Alaska at an affordable price is the problem, as well as having it compatible with consoles I would use long enough. I've got PS2 adapters for my PC, PS3, and Xbox 360 to go in the USB ports, but I only obtained a PS3 or 360 this year, and have been on PS2 until then.

 

Every PC joystick I've ever used, like the ones on the Apple ][ when I was growing up, and the Saitek X45 I have had for 8 years, has had the stick in the right hand and the buttons or rudder on the left. I found one local arcade with two identical game cabinets for a shmup, except one had the stick on the right and one on the left, and I could clear 3-4 stages on one credit on the stick in my right hand, but couldn't clear the first stage on one credit with the stick in my left.

 

Any advice on what I could do? 10 years of having a stick I can't use, and being frustrated with my controller has been very discouraging.

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Guys, I finally tested Hori V4 Hayabusa Silent Blue for 3 hours (GGXrd, Skullgirls):

 

-Well, first of all... THE HAYABUSA STICK IS THE SH*T. One of the most responsive sticks for fighters I've tried in a while, without being over sensible (unlike Sanwa). Being a Seimitsu user, I got no problem in getting used to it. Heck, even the rectangular restrictor wasn't an issue because of how it responds (I usually use an octagonal restrictor)

-The Kuro buttons (silent version) are harder than your average Sanwas (not as hard as Seimitsu). No problem with them either, though it was funny for me to try to get used to their quiet functionality (sometimes I thought I didn't press anything because I didn't hear the "clic" lmao)

-The stick itself is kinda small, compared to others (not as small as, let's say, a Madcatz SE). However, its heavy enough to stay in its play (more than 2kg). If you want portability, it's perfect.

-The rest of the buttons (Share, L3, L3, etc) are generic buttons. Nothing to add here, except that it was nice of them to actually consider those extra buttons for training, but...

-Its only flawl: THEY FORGOT TO ADD A BUTTON TO "CLIC" THE TOUCHPAD. So yes, if you want to reset your position in Xrd, you'll have to enter the Pause menu.

 

IMO it's worth the 15,000y it costs, and considering the offer of PS4 sticks is still quite limited, it's a nice alternative.

 

Just in case anyone needs to know, the V4 Hayabusa with "normal" buttons is mostly the same, except that buttons click :v:

 

anything else, please let me know and I'll see what I can do.

 

Sounds sweet! I think I might really like this, because the Sanwa stick I have (on the Soul Calibur V Madcatz) does seem a little oversensitive, and it has enough throw distance and resistance on it that I find air dashing to be a real chore. I tend to do accidental inputs as well with Sanwa buttons, so this might be a nice change.

The main thing I'm wondering is whether it's large enough to comfortably rest your stick hand on. I was talking to a friend of mine earlier and he was saying that some of the Hori sticks are so small that there is no room to rest your wrist (or the side of your hand, really), since the stick itself is very close to the slanted bottom edge of the case. What was your experience like with this, or do you not rest your hand on the case when you play? I use a bat top, myself...

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