Arcade Stick vs Controller

[RagnaXBL]

That's a preference thing.

Some people just refuse to play with 8 button config, since they'll actually accidentally hit the extra buttons with their pinky or something.

I do not think it is an issue for most people, however. And you can always unbind those buttons for extra caution, especially in BB where button settings is in the character select screen.

But for the most part, I don't think it will be a huge issue unless you're very particular about things.

cant you just not assign anything to the extra buttons?

also, when we were talking about distance between buttons earlier, i neglected to mention that measuring from the button housings is fairly misleading since they obviously don't activate the button when you press them. so, factoring that in, even when measuring from the edges, the buttons are much further apart than they are on any pad.

and look dude, just because i didn't measure the force needed to activate a button with a fucking accelerometer and a g meter doesn't mean i can't accurately gauge how much is required for it to register, lol. likewise with not having to measure travel distance with a fucking micrometer; i have much better things to do, like say, actually playing games.

besides, i highly doubt YOU'VE done such measurements yourself (and if you have, POST THEM). and what you're saying is in contradiction to what the community at large has adopted as matter-of-fact, so the burden of proof is on you, for better or worse.

let it go man :p

[mr.mortified]

BladeofJustice7 you do not want that joystick

modability for that joystick is zero to none

if you're going the converter route, its practically more expensive because you'll need both the converter and a wired xbox pad. if you insist on getting that joystick, be warned that some buttons will die on you and the buttons are pretty stiff. replacing them is a bitch as well because they're soldeered on the board. The joystick is decent but the corners feel odd. You're better off getting an SE instead of that thing, pratically the same in price after you ship them from amazon and easily dual moddable and customizable when it comes to parts. In other words if you want to step up from madcatz stock parts its easy and the board for the SE is easily dual moddable with a chimp.

[ToastCrust]

cant you just not assign anything to the extra buttons?

That's what I meant by "unbind".

[RagnaXBL]

That's what I meant by "unbind".

i thought u meant DC the wires on the buttons XD

[Supa]

dammit qwerty, i want a supergun now....

(actually i've always wanted one...)

I'll make do by making a fake vewlix cab one day.........

For the older systems and PCBs (MVS, PGM, CPS, Titan, etc) all you need is an upscanner to go from 15k RGBS to 31k VGA. You can get a chinaware upscanner for about $50.

Systems like the System 246/256, Atomiswave, NAOMI, etc run at 31k VGA native - a supergun at that point is just connecting a joystick to it. A JAMMA loom is easiest and costs about $10 - you can wire it right into a SFIV TE stick if you wanted to.

Great time to get into the hobby - ebay has had a few complete NAOMI GD-ROM sets (system, gd-rom, cables, audio amp, jvs, Sun PSU, etc) go for ~$300.

[BladeOfJustice7]

BladeofJustice7 you do not want that joystick

modability for that joystick is zero to none

if you're going the converter route, its practically more expensive because you'll need both the converter and a wired xbox pad. if you insist on getting that joystick, be warned that some buttons will die on you and the buttons are pretty stiff. replacing them is a bitch as well because they're soldeered on the board. The joystick is decent but the corners feel odd. You're better off getting an SE instead of that thing, pratically the same in price after you ship them from amazon and easily dual moddable and customizable when it comes to parts. In other words if you want to step up from madcatz stock parts its easy and the board for the SE is easily dual moddable with a chimp.

That being said (and thank you btw)

How about this one: http://www.gamestop.com/Catalog/ProductDetails.aspx?product_id=73047

Why is it considered b+ tier, unlike it's tournament edition besides the fact that the tournament edition has different gears.

[qwerty]

base is small, light, easy to accidentally move while playing.

[mr.mortified]

also madcatz SE joysticks tend to damage themselves with repeated use. The metal washer that the stock madcatz stick uses actually will scrape against the pcb and eventually will kill the pcb on the joystick. Advice, swap out the stock parts w/ sanwas as quick as possible.

also that's the american store with american prices and bullshit american shipping costs

http://www.gamestop.ca/Catalog/ProductDetails.aspx?product_id=204061

sadly its hard to find stores with stock and they dont' ship online.

next best place would be tigerdirect.ca if you want to get some shipping but its a bullshit 37 dollars more

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4401408&CatId=3265

and also for teh sanwas, i'm suprised but the playdium store is doing a package deal for JLF + 8 buttons for 50 bucks

https://www.theplaydiumstore.com/p-1268-sanwa-package-deal-joystick-8-buttons.aspx

hope that helps man

its hard to find canadian stores selling this stuff man

edit:

i did a bit of digging and apparently there's an EB/Gamestop in laval with SE's in stock. Needless to say, it seems like Montreal isn't selling these out like toronto...

(sadly you prly won't find places selling chimps in canada ;_; )

if you're gonna go the american route, go buy the parts you need on lizardlick and i think gamestop usa ships to canada but i'm not entirely sure on that

[ThunderboltZ28]

Yeah I just got an SE today for the 360. It feel so stiff and unresponsive compared to my PS3 TE. I knew it wasn't going to be good but I didn't think it was going to be this bad. I'm the world's worst with a fightstick but even I can tell the difference. Going to order some sanwas in two weeks if it doesn't break before then.

[ToastCrust]

USPS First Class from Lizardlick isn't all that expensive anyways, tbh. Well, relatively speaking. It's very doable.

[mr.mortified]

hmm, you'd prly be cheaper doing akiba shop toastcurst considering you're in BC

[ToastCrust]

Yeah, but I've never been able to find QD's or neutrik at Akiba's.

Anyways, doing a quick test:

Buying a JLF with a white balltop + 8 white sanwa OBSN-30's, converted into CAD via xe.com:

Lizardlick: $50.7699 + 6.14290(USPS1st)/8.18328(USPS1stInsured)/22.3024(USPSPriority)

vs.

Akihabara: $49.6286 + 11.6294(SAL)/14.7896(AirMail)/23.0031(EMS)

Breaking it down, LL and AK prices are nearly identical. For shipping however, the non-trackable, non-insured option is much cheaper (almost half as expensive). Additionally, you can add insurance to it, and it'll STILL be cheaper than SAL. Add on the fact that SAL is only usable with small packages, otherwise it gets bumped up to air mail, which becames almost 3x as expensive, or twice as much as insured 1st class.

However, if you want insured, trackable, express shipping, both are roughly identical. In my experience though, Priority into Canada is not much faster than 1st class, so it's never worth it. I haven't used EMS yet, though I'll soon see so I can judge that lol.

But most of the time I'm not in a rush for my parts, so I'll just take the insured LL shipping. Plus I can grab QD's and neutriks. However, AK does have his new line of PCB's now, which is why my latest order was actually from them (and since 1st class from LL scales with your package size, I actually just ordered neutrik etc. from him separately lol).

But yeah, even out here in BC, LL's shipping is actually very affordable if it can wait. That's these days though. Thanks to the dollar in general getting kinda weak compared to the JPY these days, which really hurts AK.

And this test reveals another thing: there's almost no difference between Playdium's limited time offer and just buying it straight up from LL xD LL will be slightly more expensive though probably, thanks to the extra $$$ paypal or your credit card will take for exchanging currency.

[mr.mortified]

there's qd's in akiba but no neutriks though

the qd's are uninsulated but for 100 its like 12 bucks i think. i forget

yeah got myself a few of them ps360's and couldn't pass up the offer of 10% off all parts that came with along with free EMS for the boards

[ToastCrust]

Akiba's sort of weird to find things in these days. Like, 80% of his categories are dead ends or empty, and there isn't any really consistent way to actually tell that either.

[DemiiPoet]

I've been wondering something since I've switched from pad: Why are the L1 L2 R1 R2/LB LT RB RT reversed on sticks? o_O

[ToastCrust]

I blame MadCatz.

When I put my sticks together, I do it the logical way. Not like Button config takes any effort.

[ThunderboltZ28]

if it doesn't break

Haha. That didn't take long.

[ToastCrust]

Just chuck a Cthulu into it?

[mr.mortified]

I've been wondering something since I've switched from pad: Why are the L1 L2 R1 R2/LB LT RB RT reversed on sticks? o_O

Street Fighter layout. That way in tournaments, no need to hit button config if its set to default controller.

[ThunderboltZ28]

Didn't they reverse it on the MvC2 TE?

[mr.mortified]

yep because that's the default controls for MvC2

[DemiiPoet]

I still don't see the point in switching them... Granted, I've never played any MvC.

[mr.mortified]

faster for tournaments, hence called a "tournament edition"

[ThunderboltZ28]

Its like what Mr.Mortified said its so you don't have to mess with the button configuration.

[ToastCrust]

Not that people don't do a button check every fucking match in Super.