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mr.mortified

Q&A about Joystick Building, Parts, and Purchasing

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It's a Korean made American style arcade stick, under the brand name of 'Fanta Stick'.

http://www.gammac.asia/ProductShow.asp?ID=219

I have SOME experience with soldering and electronic circuits, thanks to 10th grade...

Thanks for the info. Know where I can get the complete parts (Sanwa joystick only, of course)?

EDIT: Ugh...Looking back at it, I think this is some custom made stuff. I don't think I can mod it...

It's probably not even Happ stick, but it feels as stiff as one.

DAMMIT.

if its a fanta its korean sticks

they still install the same

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no you don't need the actuator and stuff, it all comes with what you need

also that JLW is easy enough to install into that stick as it comes with waht seems to be a compatible mounting plate. just screw the new stick in, pull out the quick disconnects on teh stick and replace them onto the JLW

for the buttons, i think you'd have to solder it but if i remember right you want to keep them so that's a non-issue

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I've been using a modded FS3 with seimitsu LS33 for past two months but I still dont feel comfortable with it, the stock spring was too light but when I replaced it with a spring from LS56 it felt too stiff.

So instead of messing about more with this, I'm thinking of picking up a SF4:TE which has sanwa parts IIRC.

I play Tekken6 with controller but I would like to try use stick with it as well, besides for BB and other Arc games.

What would you folks recommend?

Battle it out with my FS3, switch to Madcatz SF4:TE stick, or something else?

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If it feels too stiff, you can always make the spring more loose. All you need to do is just use it more.

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I've been using a modded FS3 with seimitsu LS33 for past two months but I still dont feel comfortable with it, the stock spring was too light but when I replaced it with a spring from LS56 it felt too stiff.

So instead of messing about more with this, I'm thinking of picking up a SF4:TE which has sanwa parts IIRC.

I play Tekken6 with controller but I would like to try use stick with it as well, besides for BB and other Arc games.

What would you folks recommend?

Battle it out with my FS3, switch to Madcatz SF4:TE stick, or something else?

if you feel like an LS56 spring is too stiff, add a JLF spring to that LS33.

so in other words, include both the ls33 spring and the JLF spring inside the LS33

don't buy what you can mod as i like to say

also since we're on the topic of this

Image0090.jpg

Edited by mr.mortified

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Awesome I didn't know JLF/Sanwa springs were compatible with Seimitsu's :thumbu:

Lucky I had a spare JLF lying around, that was what I put into the FS3 first but the shaft was too long for me to play comfortably so I went with a LS33 instead

At first sight it looks as though the JLF spring might not fit in because of shorter length and tiny bit larger radius

springso.jpg

but after I switched the springs it feels great!

some photos:

outsidev.jpg

gutsa.jpg

Not finished yet, no template art and temporary coloured buttons, i had tekken in mind when i started the project so the 4 button layout.

Wiring is messy but nobody has to see it :v:

edit

I missed the point where you said include BOTH springs:blush:

i like it with only the JLF in there, having the LS33 one too would only make it a bit stiffer right?

Edited by kraken

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that is correct, it will make it only a smidge stiffer

did you at least fix the button layout when you did your rewiring?

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that is correct, it will make it only a smidge stiffer

did you at least fix the button layout when you did your rewiring?

Yep I switched the buttons so I can use default settings in Tek, but I use Type-B setup for BB so had to reconfig there, cant have it both ways unfortunately

Will have to tear it all apart when I add art and plexiglass to it though :gonk:

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Yep I switched the buttons so I can use default settings in Tek, but I use Type-B setup for BB so had to reconfig there, cant have it both ways unfortunately

Will have to tear it all apart when I add art and plexiglass to it though :gonk:

you mean you didn't do the standard TE layout?

that's usually the best layout

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you mean you didn't do the standard TE layout?

that's usually the best layout

Why do you say TE is the best layout, is it from experience or because of some other reason?

For my FS3, I hardwired the layout to use the first four buttons as the default layout for PS3 because I prefer to use those instead of the middle four.

If I use the TE layout then not only will I have to reconfig the buttons in Tek but also in BB.

Not a big deal actually, I'm being lazy :v:

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Can anybody from Southeast Asia give me their review on purchasing from Lizardlick? Security, prices, waiting period, and all that.

(I believe I made a whole new thread before about this before, and was banned for it. For whatever I did to be considered a 'spambot', I apologize.)

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Can anybody from Southeast Asia give me their review on purchasing from Lizardlick? Security, prices, waiting period, and all that.

(I believe I made a whole new thread before about this before, and was banned for it. For whatever I did to be considered a 'spambot', I apologize.)

You're better off asking SRK this, from what I know, its better to get from akihabarashop.jp since they're located in Japan.

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So i'm trying to dual mod a 360 TE stick using a chimpSMD. I have it all wired up and it works on 360 but the ps3 doesn't even recognize it. The light on the board lights up to say it plugged in but nothing happens on the ps3. I try plugging it into a PC to test it and it doesn't recognize anything unless I put it in 360 mode. Any idea why this would happen? Could I just have a defective Chimp?

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I had a similar issue with adding a Cthulhu to my 360 TE. The problem with mine ended up being two things:

a) A bit of faulty wiring (hopefully not an issue for you *laughs* )

b) Wildly fluctuating voltage leading to the PCB in PS3 mode. Check this with a multimeter, and if it's misbehaving (I think you should be getting a 5 volt reading across the board, but you should check a more reliable source than my memory), try fixing that before blaming it on the Chimp. The solution for me was to make a couple of coils in the line and band them together (essentially putting a shitty inductor between the PS3 and the PCB), and it works beautifully now.

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Thanks, i'll check the wiring again. And umm... i'm kinda new to most of this stuff so I don't really know what the second part ment :P

But thanks again, you were more helpful then anyone on SRK

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Sorry, let me try to explain a bit more clearly. The wire that connects the console to the Chimp board (printed circuit board, or PCB) should be carrying a particular electric potential for it to work properly with a PS3 (probably also the same case with a 360, but since your stick is already made for that console, that shouldn't be an issue). If I'm not mistaken, that potential is 5 volts. You can measure how much your PCB is actually getting by connecting the stick to your PS3 and using a multimeter (something like these) to measure the voltage difference across the terminals that the wiring from the USB cord are connected to. It should give you a fairly stable reading (assuming 5 volts is the right number, it's okay if it's dancing between like 4.9 to 5.1, but it shouldn't be going all over the place, which is what I'd run into). If it isn't stable, what you can try doing is making a small coil with couple of loops with the USB cord inside of the TE box (something like the upper or lower left images here). Use something to hold the coils tightly together (I used a little elastic sleeve, but even something like masking tape should be fine). That should help to stabilize the voltage.

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Ok thanks! I'll look into that :)

It just seems weird that it would work on 360 but not ps3 since it should have to go through the ps3 board to get to the 360 on. (I think. Is that actually right?)

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Ok thanks! I'll look into that :)

It just seems weird that it would work on 360 but not ps3 since it should have to go through the ps3 board to get to the 360 on. (I think. Is that actually right?)

The CHIMP board acts as an imp board and a ps3 board on the same one. That means it goes through the imp first, which picks either the attached 360 USB or the PS3 part of the board.

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I'm not sure exactly what's going on with a Chimp. I just have a manual switch and a Cthulhu. The problem you're describing does sound exactly like what I went through, though. Had a devil of a time trying to figure out what was wrong, since my board worked just fine when I connected it by itself to a PS3 and used a little wire to manually touch the button/d-pad terminals to test them, but whenever I'd put it into the stick, it was like it was dead *laughs* (only worked on PC when I set the switch for the 360 PCB, and never had any issues working on 360, but the Cthulhu was just being difficult). Never found anyone else with the same issue (and even the guy who was helping me with the solder-work said he'd never run into that problem in the dozen or so sticks he'd worked on in the past), so I guess it's a nice twist of fate that I happened to drop by this thread today *laughs* . Hopefully it doesn't take you a week or so to resolve things like it did for me.

Edited by omegaryuji

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well it looks like i came into this a bit late...

first disconnect everything between the two boards and then plug your chimp into the computer and see if it works standalone

it also helps to know what is the other board you're using for the 360 as you may be breaking some golden rules by accident

i apologize for not seeing this earlier....

muvluv alternative is too addicting

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