Jump to content
mr.mortified

Q&A about Joystick Building, Parts, and Purchasing

Recommended Posts

Any Experience with the ps360+ ? Im thinking of picking up one when the retailers stock up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Any Experience with the ps360+ ? Im thinking of picking up one when the retailers stock up.

They work I guess

You're in Markham?

If you need some form of dual mod board I can hook you up

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im gonna start building a proper case for my arcade stick so i wont need to use a crappy plastic box , the only thing im unsure is that would 3 pieces of 2 mm acrylic be strong enough for the top layer where it hold my buttons/joystick or would it be really flimsy ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Itd work, but unsure if its enough spacing for standard stick height

Sent from my HTC Panache using Tapatalk 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

what you have to do when drilling acrylic with a hand drill

-Predrill a piece of wood with the same sized hole as the one you need, this will be your template

-Run a pilot hole through the centre of the hole on the acrylic

-proceed to mount your template over your bit and then find the pilot hole with the bit

-clamp the template down and clamp another piece of wood on the other side of the acrylic to prevent any blowout

-drill the hole

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I just bought a dual modded TE for 110 but I occasionally get a message saying that I need to connect a controller even though it is connected is this an issue anyone has had this problem and is the dual modded problem or a controller issue? Im playing on a ps3 if it makes a difference. sorry I did not know where to post this haha.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
So I just bought a dual modded TE for 110 but I occasionally get a message saying that I need to connect a controller even though it is connected is this an issue anyone has had this problem and is the dual modded problem or a controller issue? Im playing on a ps3 if it makes a difference. sorry I did not know where to post this haha.

Sounds like there's a loose connection somewhere.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It most likely on xbox mode.... How is it modded? Impv1? Chimp smd? Dpdt switch? Impv2?

Sent from my HTC Panache using Tapatalk 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, so I got a situation in my hands that I'm rather new to.

I bought an arcade stick from Amazon eighteen months ago roughly. It's a Hori stick for the Xbox 360 and my A button is wearing out from usage. What I need to know is that if there's someone who can repair it locally from Riverside, CA with a reasonable price especially since it's just one button. If nothing does come up, is there at least purchasable buttons that I can do the fixing myself. More specificall if the details are needed, my Hori stick is a Real Arcade Pro.EX. I do appreaciate the help in advance, just let me know if there's any more questions needed.

EDIT:: After looking inside my stick, it doesn't look as bad as I thought it would be to do the repairs by myself. The only thing in question is that the buttons are directly wired to the drive or the motherboard, lack of a proper word to describe. I'd rather not try and experiment with others so if there's something of a button kit where they are directly wired, let me know of a reliable brand.

Edited by Kivorav

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Okay, so I got a situation in my hands that I'm rather new to.

I bought an arcade stick from Amazon eighteen months ago roughly. It's a Hori stick for the Xbox 360 and my A button is wearing out from usage. What I need to know is that if there's someone who can repair it locally from Riverside, CA with a reasonable price especially since it's just one button. If nothing does come up, is there at least purchasable buttons that I can do the fixing myself. More specificall if the details are needed, my Hori stick is a Real Arcade Pro.EX. I do appreaciate the help in advance, just let me know if there's any more questions needed.

EDIT:: After looking inside my stick, it doesn't look as bad as I thought it would be to do the repairs by myself. The only thing in question is that the buttons are directly wired to the drive or the motherboard, lack of a proper word to describe. I'd rather not try and experiment with others so if there's something of a button kit where they are directly wired, let me know of a reliable brand.

First off, try and see if it is the button that's crapping out or if it's the board itself. Switch the wires for one of the working buttons and try it on the one that isn't. If the button is still acting the same, then it's the button for sure, and if it IS, then it's your board.

As of right now, I'm assuming it's the button itself.

Easiest way to fix that button, replace it. Since it's an HRAP EX, the button that you would need is a Sanwa OBSF-30. You can find and purchase them on focusattack.com for $2.75 USD each. Very cheap and if you feel like replacing all of them for a button color that you prefer, now is the best time to do it.

As for replacing it, you just remove the buttons from the quick-disconnect and replace it.

If it's your board, then the best thing for you is to is to find someone in your area that can help you try to fix it, either by fixing the old board, or by replacing it.

Hope this helps,

~Saka

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a stick repair question of my own, and my 30 seconds of googling has failed to turn up an answer (okay, I'm lazy and didn't try to sift through any videos looking for an answer) - I have a HORI HRAP EX-SE, and the USB cable is starting to fray where it connects to the stick. This isn't a problem yet, but I'm sure it will be eventually.

I'm reasonably confident that I can fix this all by my lonesome by popping the stick open, cutting the cable, and reconnecting it to the PCB, but in the name of preparedness, does anyone know if the cable is soldered to the PCB or whether it uses some other sort of connection?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, so how do you remove the wires from the button? Having trouble with that without going through extreme measures.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have a stick repair question of my own, and my 30 seconds of googling has failed to turn up an answer (okay, I'm lazy and didn't try to sift through any videos looking for an answer) - I have a HORI HRAP EX-SE, and the USB cable is starting to fray where it connects to the stick. This isn't a problem yet, but I'm sure it will be eventually.

I'm reasonably confident that I can fix this all by my lonesome by popping the stick open, cutting the cable, and reconnecting it to the PCB, but in the name of preparedness, does anyone know if the cable is soldered to the PCB or whether it uses some other sort of connection?

For that stick I believe that the USB cable is connected by multi-pin connector. If you can, the best solution would be to simply source a USB cable from someone.

Okay, so how do you remove the wires from the button? Having trouble with that without going through extreme measures.

Open the plastic covering over the connectors. Then slide a flathead screw under the QDs and wiggle it a bit until it's loose.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For better image reference for what d3v is trying to tell you :

IMG_0150.jpg

On the far right quick-disconnect (QD) you remove the sleeve by pulling back on it. Then just place the screwdriver between the QD itself and the button itself. It should come off easily, so don't force it too much, or else you might damage the button's prongs.

Edited by sakabato24

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, I've tried with pilers and nearly bent the wire that way. Anyhow, my button issue got resolved. The case was that after taking the pieces that makes the button apart, it had a large build up of sweat, which is causing the button to get sticky. Cleaned it up and it works as perfectly as it was when bought. Thanks for the help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some of you might remember that Razer is supposed to be building an arcade stick, they even announced some sort of beta program about a year back. Well, after months of being teased (with only players like Latif having prototypes), look what came in the mail.

72F14AA8-0459-40E4-89AB-5B7D782C6AB4.JPG

734D06CA-100A-43C6-BF5F-CB10174857C3.JPG

12+-+1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Curse you d3v for being in the phillipines and having a closer shipping time from singapore to canada....

I will get mine soon.......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Curse you d3v for being in the phillipines and having a closer shipping time from singapore to canada....

I will get mine soon.......

Hong Kong. These things were shipped from Hong Kong.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ummm... quick question. Is there anywhere that sells custom handles? something other than the standard teardrop/sphere.... i was thinking about building a joystick but i wanna make it look cool. maybe a dragon head or a skull or something. anyone ever try experimenting with putting the head of a gear shifter on a joystick?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ummm... quick question. Is there anywhere that sells custom handles? something other than the standard teardrop/sphere.... i was thinking about building a joystick but i wanna make it look cool. maybe a dragon head or a skull or something. anyone ever try experimenting with putting the head of a gear shifter on a joystick?

I don't think anyone sells this sort of thing; If you want a custom shape, you're probably going to need to make it yourself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hello, i was curious what the diameter of the wiring for the "Sanwa JLF harness" (http://www.focusattack.com/products/Sanwa-JLF%252dH-5%252dPin-Wiring-Harness.html) was. as I'm planning on using nylon cable sleeving. Im thinking 1/4" but I'm not sure.

1/4 is fine, hell it may be even too big

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×