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mr.mortified

Q&A about Joystick Building, Parts, and Purchasing

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I'm not an expert, but you can probably replace the spring for increased tension. This may or may not actually be a good idea, however. Unless you're actually having trouble "finding neutral" it's probably smarter to just get accustomed to it, rather than install something to give it more "Fight".

Edit: On the other hand, the things cost like 90 cents, so, whatever, go to town. <ahttp://www.dustloop.com/forums/uploads/emoticons/default_smile.gif' alt=':)'> The process is apparently super easy.

Yea I opened it up and manually tightened the stick spring -- it was quite easy if not alil stiff (now) but its been easier to deal with than the looseness -- (late reply!)

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Hey lately I've been having problems with my joystick, (Madcatz brawlstick for easy modding.) as the stick itself appears to hold inputs for about 1/4 to 1/2 a second after it releases to neutral. I swapped the shitty default stick out for a Sanwa(think it was JFL) about a year ago, and have had no problems until now. If someone can help me troubleshoot it that would be awesome. Also, if someone knows how take off the front pane to change the art, that would also be greatly appreciated.

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To get the front panel off you need to remove the art first. Just take out the buttons and move the turbo panel out of the way. After that you should be able to peel the art off, go slowly so you can take most of the glue off without tearing and creating a mess. You can use Goof Off to get rid of the excess adhesive left on the panel. Then you should be able to get the top panel off with the screws being visible.

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Hello gents,

Newcomer here. Just picked up BlazBlue CSEX, looking to get into the fighting scene a bit... One thing I love is great feel and great gear when I'm playing. I've done some research over some sticks and I really can't make up my mind over which Real Arcade Pro version to get. Theres the RAP V3, the RAP V3 SA, and of course the RAP V3 SA KAI

Does anyone really have a preference or anything in particular about either of these? One thing that I'm really liking about the original V3 is the distance between the buttons and the stick. The V3's distance of the stick from the buttons is a little further than the SA, but closer than the KAI. I also feel like it's very similar to how far apart your hands are on the home row keyboard, which is what I would prefer. If I'm making any sense let me know, and if not please correct me before I think I'm getting something I'm not. They seem to all be quality products so I'm not too concerned there, just wanted to hear people's thoughts on the three.

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The Kai is the newest version of the HRAP V series, the big improvements off the top of my head are that the art is now made of a more sturdy material (the old Hrap vx/v3 art wore off pathetically easily) and that it comes with the non-slip padding on the bottom. It also allows for you to disable the start button from the turbo panel, which is nice considering it's on the face.

Otherwise it comes with the same sanwa buttons and stick, its the same body, just improved. I would go with the Kai.

Only toss up is the button <-> stick spacing, I switch between a stick that uses the Noir layout and classic Sega Astro layout constantly with no problem, so its personally not a problem.

Edited by Tigre
worded something better V:

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Hey I have the old version of the etokki Korean arcade stick(below). Problem is They don't have the template for my model any more and honestly I want my own plexi so I was wondering how do I make the blueprint for the stick and where can i get someone to make the plexie for me. I already tried ArtsHobbies he did not respond.

post-11389-139515172872_thumb.jpg

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http://www.mediafire.com/?k9ip88zfz2v4ij7 here the template Laugh posted.

The art shouldn't be attached to the plexi if I recall, you should be able to pull the art right up from under it. It's been a while since I've seen one.

<edit> http://www.mediafire.com/?w05kp8l351jjo77 here an updated template someone else made is just some adjustments to make it easier to work with it seems.

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When I said plexie I meant is there any way I can get someone to make custom plexies. also thanks for the template.

Edited by Dr.Faust

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What exactly do you want in a plexi that would make it custom though?

Arthong does not do custom work, I don't see him making a one off plexi. The only other person in the community I know that makes custom to order plexi/lexan is blklightning, but he's been AWOL for a while now, and still has outstanding orders from a while ago, so that's not quite viable.

Contacting Laugh from etokki may net you results.

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What exactly do you want in a plexi that would make it custom though?

Arthong does not do custom work, I don't see him making a one off plexi. The only other person in the community I know that makes custom to order plexi/lexan is blklightning, but he's been AWOL for a while now, and still has outstanding orders from a while ago, so that's not quite viable.

Contacting Laugh from etokki may net you results.

I want a six button layout

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its really easy

find teh directions/inputs from the board and strip the wire a bit and screw them in the screw down terminals

to access home is a bit more difficult, you need to solder for that

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This is a question in subjectivity, but how "easy" is it to change a single button on the stick?

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It's one of the easiest things you can do, get access to the bottom of the button, remove the two quick disconnects, put new button in, put quick disconnects back on (doesnt matter which prong they go on)

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ok so Im gonna buy -- basically whatever i need to mod my stick so its dual compatible unless its basically the same cost of another stick (PSN) that you guys can recommend -- but I kinda feel like I need someone to hold my hand through this as Im a bit nervous doing this kind of hardware work -- not to mention I hope someone can point out "Buy this part to make your shit dual compatible"

Madcatz TE (street fight IV) (XBL) I know ive posted here before about this and i referenced those responses but I just feel like I need some help

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Hi! im trying to update mi PS360+ with the official tutorial form Akishop http://beckfolio.com/focusattack/akishop/docs/PS360PlusFWUpdateGuide.pdf

but when a select the USB option in the Flip a get "AtliBUsbDfu.dll not found" error, im search the .dll in the Flip carpet an is there...how a can fix it guys?

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I hope you can answer this as it involves arcade sticks. If I put this in the wrong section, I'm really sorry! I am still getting used to things.(New blood)

So should I Dual mod my Arcade stick so it can work on both 360 and PS3 or just buy a converter?

I currently have a Mad Catz SoulCalibur V Arcade FightStick SOUL Edition for Xbox 360. I play on stick and since CP is on PS3, I need to knw which is the better option. i heard the converters aren't that good but Dual modding seems a complicated process.

So which is the better route to take.

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The main thing about converters is that sometimes they can introduce lag into the system, so you should do research to make sure if there are any 360 -> PS3 converters that are lagless.

Otherwise the Kitty board was designed to be a really easy way to dual mod a stick.

http://godlikecontrols.com/ is out of stock on the Kitty right now, unfortunately. Might be able to find them at other shops though.

Here's the Kitty thread.

You might also try a PS360+ (they're currently in preorder at some shops), but I haven't used one so I couldn't tell you much about it.

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<Edit> let me re-write my post so it makes sense.

The Cerberus has been out of stock for a pretty long while. Toodles is busy (with school iirc) and doesn't seem to be continuing production on a few of his products, the Kitty is one of them sadly.

Your only other real solderless alternative is going to be the Cerberus. It will install fine on the TE Soul Edition with one catch. You will need to remove one of the mounting screws on your JLF to allow it clearance when you close the stick. There is always the option of soldering the connections between the boards. It's not terribly complicated (in the realm of of soldering at least), but I can understand how someone without experience would want to avoid that. You could always seek out someone in your local community who has soldering skills to assist you.

I would avoid PS3 <-> 360 converters. Due to the nature of how they work every one of them that I've seen tested has significant lag, and the untested ones have other (reported) undesirable effects such as disconnecting the other controller, burning out USB ports, etc.

tl;dr Cerberus or Kitty (if you can find one) are both fine options. If you want help ask around your local community.

Edited by Tigre

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You don't need to do any soldering for the soul edition if you're talking a Cerberus board. If I remember correctly

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

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You don't need to do any soldering for the soul edition if you're talking a Cerberus board. If I remember correctly

Correct, but you do need to remove one of the mounting screws for the JLF for the top panel to go back on.

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I've got a friend who is looking into making a custom keyboard stick cause he is silly like that. Anyone have any estimate on how much something that like would cost him if he were to pay someone to build it for him? I think he said he'd be good with using arcade buttons in place of actual keyboard keys but he wants the whole directions on the right side deal.

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Most of the custom builders over on SRK will make a case with whatever layout you want. I would expect a case like that to run upwards of ~$120-$150 (for just the case), maybe a bit cheaper depending on options. For the entire thing to be wired up, with buttons and a pcb would depend on the stick builder (if they even offer that option.)

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