Q&A about Joystick Building, Parts, and Purchasing

[Alpha152]

Hey! I'm currently running a ChImpSMD + 360 board on my stick but I'm swapping out my case and am considering switching to a Cthulhu. 360/PS3 compatibility isn't a concern for me anymore so the question I have is if I get a Cthulu are there any other boards I need installed or is everything ran just through the Cthulhu?

[Delrian]

The Cthulhu works standalone with PC/PS3, and there's a Multi-console version of it that also works with PS2 and a bunch of other older ones. You wouldn't need any other boards unless you wanted 360 functionality or lights.

[Alpha152]

Ok thanks! Another question I had was about wiring. I'm debating between these 2 wiring options

http://www.focusattack.com/10-connection-110-ground-daisy-chain-wire/

http://www.focusattack.com/black-joystick-wire-harness/

If I use the chain wire with only 1 connection per button, will it still work? Or must both wires be connected to the buttons?

[Delrian]

If you get the black joystick wire harness, you don't need the daisy chain.

If you get the daisy chain, you need to get some signal cables (like say, these, although with the daisy chain you'd only need 10 http://www.focusattack.com/black-16pc-wire-with-110-quick-disconnect/)

[Alpha152]

Ah ok, so the daisy wire that connects to all the buttons would go to ground and the other wire to each input on the board? I think I'm slowly understanding it better.

[Alpha152]

Does anyone know if it's possible to use silent foam washers in addition to LEDs for buttons? I feel like since both parts go underneath the plunger stacking them might affect button precision.

Edited February 13, 2014 by Alpha152

[Tigre]

http://fgc.paradisearcadeshop.com/paradise-arcade-exclusive-products/811-paradise-obsfs-silent-30mm-led-pushbutton-pad.html PA makes a silencer just for LEDs.

[Alpha152]

Thanks! Another question I had is are there any LEDs that are compatible with Sanwa buttons? Both the Uila and Arc Eye seemed to require sanding down the plunger to be used.

[Loryuo]

What are the tools i need in order to add my own art to my eightarc fusion, besides buying new plexi glass? i've never done this before.

[Mcgreag]

I think the Eightarc is basically a rebranded Qanba Q4, so if there aren't any major differences the only thing you need would be 2 screwdrivers. One Philips for most screws and one flathead (larger is better) to lock the joystick shaft so you can unscrew the balltop. A flat plier might be good as well to help get the wire connections off the buttons.

Of course you need that art as well, cut out to the correct size with cut out holes for the buttons etc.

[Loryuo]

Thanks a lot. Will use this knowledge when i get all the things I need.

[Tigre]

Thanks! Another question I had is are there any LEDs that are compatible with Sanwa buttons? Both the Uila and Arc Eye seemed to require sanding down the plunger to be used.

http://fgc.paradisearcadeshop.com/paradise-kaimana-led-controller-and-accessories/1052-paradise-kaimana-j-rgb-led.html

http://fgc.paradisearcadeshop.com/home/1050-paradise-kaimana-led-controller-pcb-0085574200312.html

Sorry for the late reply

and for the EightArc stick, yeah. you need a Philips-head and a flathead screw driver, PH to get the top panel and bottom plate off, Flathead to get the balltop on and off.

[Alpha152]

Thanks, exactly what I was looking for!

[Speakeasy]

Here's a less tech-heavy question, but I feel like this is the best place to ask: How hard is it to replace/put a new graphic on a stick? There's certainly nothing wrong with the stick I have now, and the graphic is far from bad, but it's a bit... bland. It doesn't feel ... "me" enough, I guess. Is it possible to just find the layout of the top and whip out GIMP/Photoshop and make myself a nice graphic, then take it to a photography/office supply store and have them print it out for me, or is it much more complicated than that?

[blackraen]

Here's a less tech-heavy question, but I feel like this is the best place to ask: How hard is it to replace/put a new graphic on a stick? There's certainly nothing wrong with the stick I have now, and the graphic is far from bad, but it's a bit... bland. It doesn't feel ... "me" enough, I guess. Is it possible to just find the layout of the top and whip out GIMP/Photoshop and make myself a nice graphic, then take it to a photography/office supply store and have them print it out for me, or is it much more complicated than that?

This is very dependent on what kind of stick you have and what kind of facilities you have near you. Most commercial sticks do not come with plexi overlays that make it easy to swap art, though that is changing with options like the new MCZ TE2.

Your first step is to evaluate your stick, if you have a plexi overlay or some other mechanism that would allow you to swap your art already. Most TEs come with the art panel and plexi as a fused piece, so you'll need to order a plexi overlay (art at tek-innovations can cover you on this, as well as many other kinds of common sticks). Others may simply have a sticker label meaning you'll be on your own for deciding how you want to replace it (Hori RAP3s for instance). In some cases Art might supply plexi panels that you can use, otherwise you might have to find a place that will print your art on a lami-label (or some other sticker/vinyl wrap type material).

Once you've evaluated your stick for replace-ability of the art and acquired any additional stuff you might need (like a replacement plexi), then yes, you can proceed with art replacement.

For designing your own replacement art, either search and find a template (usually supplied as .PSD or .PDFs) for your stick, or take measurements of your stick yourself and try to create the template in your graphic editor. DIY template design can be tricky for button holes, but if you aren't doing a design that requires knowing EXACTLY where your buttons are you can just generalize best you can and you should be fine. Make sure you're working at 300dpi or higher for best results. 72dpi will look like poop when you print it out.

As far as printing, your print shop might have different options, I have had the best success with a non-gloss 80lb paper that my local shop has. They have two versions with different temperatures of white -- I prefer the warmer white, the printed material tends to pop better, but this may depend on your content. When in doubt, print two out.

You can cut the print out up yourself using an exacto knife. Use your plexi overlay to trace your lines. Cut straight lines with a ruler, for button holes and other curves make sure you use something with a medium hardness as backing and use an even steady pressure and turn your artwork to suit your cutting, don't play twister. If the backing material is too soft you won't get clean lines, but too hard and you'll have control issues. Don't fuss too much about button holes though, the lip will cover up the edges.

Finally, when putting your art in, you will need to open your stick up and remove your buttons and at minimum take off your lever's ball/bat top. Make sure to note which wires go where.

Again, the exact process is going to depend on your stick, but it can be as easy as print out a graphic and put it on.

[7heTexanRebel]

I did some searches and didn't really find much in the way of an answer. So I guess here is the best place to put this.

I have a Hori VX fight stick for 360 but I recently bought a PS3 in anticipation of BBCP's release and I'm thinking about just getting the PS3 version of the stick, I have 2 worries though:

1) I'm going to have a stick that will only work with my PS3 copy of CP since it's probably not going to work with PS4 (unless I somehow mod it.) and I have most of the other fighters that exist for console on 360.

2) The deadzone feels massive but that doesn't seem to be a listed stat on any sticks that I've seen making it hard to compare sticks without other people's input. Apparently you can mod this, but I'm not sure how great an idea that (and console compatibility modding) would be with a relatively low end stick like this. The deadzone isn't really a problem with most inputs except super jumps and dashes but I seriously was able to do some combo's with like 5 minutes practice on the PS Vita version of EX that I never got with hours of practice in the console version with the stick just because the little thumbstick on the vita doesn't move as far.

So, is it realistic to mod a ~$50 PS3 stick to work for PS4 or am I just going to have to shell out for another stick when I decide to go next gen? And:

How are the deadzones on fightsticks? Is the Hori VX pretty standard and can I mod it relatively easily to have a smaller deadzone for stuff like dashes and sjumps? Or is it just better for me to specifically practice just dashing and jumps with the stick I have now?

Thanks in advance.

[Delrian]

http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html would have the information regarding activation distances on various parts. Won't include stuff like random $50 3rd party sticks.

The thing about PS4 is that while a stick won't work on the main menus, a company like ASW can program their game to accept the inputs of a PS3 stick. We'd probably have to wait for a CG PS4 pad to show up before we can think about modding for the whole console...

I don't know how easy that particular stick is to mod, but getting a PS360+, and maybe a new joystick might solve your issues better than buying a second $50 one.

[Tigre]

We'd probably have to wait for a CG PS4 pad to show up before we can think about modding for the whole console...

No you don't. You would need a common ground PCB for a dual mod, but if you just want it to work with PS4 you can go nuts with a non common ground pcb.

The Hori VX is one of the better/easier cheaper sticks to drop sanwa parts in. I'm sure if you search you'll find a guide about it

[shtkn]

i got an oversized actuator for my stick:

http://www.focusattack.com/kowal-1mm-oversize-actuator-for-sanwa-jlf-series-joystick/

and i feel like i'm missing my 623 motions more... is it just me or is there something wrong with teh actuator?

[Tigre]

That's how oversized actuators are, that's the most simple explaination. the jlf is engineered for the stock actuator.

Edited March 17, 2014 by Tigre

[shtkn]

i see, guess i'll try adjusting for a while...

[SuzakuRainmaker]

Not sure if this is the best section to ask this, but I'll give it a shot. Is there anyone who can print (and cut too, preferably) MadCatz SE Brawlstick artwork, similar to how Art's Hobbies does? I wanted to use that site, but the guy doesn't do SE stuff. I tried printing/laminating/cutting everything myself at Staples, since I don't have a Fedex Office nearby, and while it worked decently at first...

 

 

...The laminate in the corners is starting to come undone, and the cut around the control panel is starting to bug me to no end as well.

 

So, any ideas?

[Tigre]

That will happen with Lami-label.

An alternative would be looking into a service that will print vinyl art (You will likely have to cut that art too), it will hold up much better than lami-label. I'm not familiar with a service that will cut art for you for an SE.

[mr.mortified]

It happens because there is an open seam in the lamination where you have a sandwich of plastic, paper and plastic rather than melted together plastic.  What you can do is leave a border of plastic laminate around the art itself but the art will be smaller printed

[SuzakuRainmaker]

Urgh, posted this in the wrong thread initially. Sorry about that.

 

ANYWAYS, I could try that in the future. I cut out another template I had (I bought backups just in case something like this would happen), and so far none of the early peeling that happened last time (you can see some of it in the picture around the control panel) has happened yet. Gonna try a different adhesive this time (double sided tape, as opposed to sticky squares) too, just to see if having less lumps helps.

 

I'll post pics and results later, once I get all my new parts and stuff installed.