blackraen

Lol! That's awesome. Yep, 30mm. I wonder if he maybe just doesn't have a 24mm bit. So yeah, you should be good to go. I can't wait to get a table saw so I can start possibly offering my own case builds for folks. I've gotten passable but having to clamp and fence with a circular saw has it's limits.

Yeah basically the nice thing about a wood case is that you can get pretty creative about attaching a mounting plate as long as you don't mind making some new holes, and really all you need are the screws and a driver. If your panel is metal though, kowal's multi-adapter plate would probably be the easier option. I'm curious about your lever's hole size though, is it really 30mm? Same size as your buttons? That sounds too big. In anycase it'll probably work out. You would definitely find the LS32 and LS40 to be on the short side though, but an LS56 or LS58 should work fine. Yep, basically if you're going to be hooking up any additional boards to the buttons besides the PDP. Honestly, I'm not a fan of PDP, they always do 'different' things with their circuitry rather than just going with the simple approach that make it more difficult than it needs to be. I just wish the HFC4 was more readily available.

The LS-56 plate has mounting holes in-line with what you'd expect from a JLF. Happ Super does not have the same mounting hole setup so you will need to adapt somehow. I have adapted wood cases with bottom mounts by using wood screws with washers and filing off the screws before in those circumstances. The other problem you may have is that most of the Japanese levers assume a larger hole for the main shaft. I've never been hands-on with a Happ so I don't know if that'd be a problem, but when I've built cases and screwed up the centering of my lever mount, I was okay so I imagine that you'll be fine on that regard. LS56 has a longer shaft too so depending on your case, it should work out. LS-58 would work too but I think you'd have issues bottom mounting an LS32 or LS40 if you're running a Happ right now. JLF might even be a bit short. Usually though cases built for American/European parts tend to be bad fits with Japanese parts just because of the different measurements, clearances, all leading to a kind of awkward mismatch. Don't even think about the DS4. Mad pain in the arse. Hori's FC4 looks like a pretty simple pad-hack job. Not quite as easy as the GGXrd LE pad, but pretty close. PDP MKX pad looks like a good option too unless you're dual-modding. Gummo's HFC4 pad post Gummo's PDP MKX pad post

I'm on the West Coast and end up with some fairly decent games with JP players, but I think the thing that's causing confusion is that there's really two aspects to the connection: - Delay - Lag/Stalls TL:DR - Delay is going to follow the connection number, but lagging and stalling is based on network quality that can't be accurately reflect in the ping tests that the game uses to establish the connection number. So lag free doesn't mean low delay. Networking 101 ...

Switches used, pivot cup, length of shaft, strength of spring. Hayabusa has a pivot cup that is designed to minimize contact with the receiver to create a smoother motion compared to the pivots used in a JLF or Seimitsu. The LS56 is a favorite among shmups fans for it's stiff spring and small dead zone. The -01 means it uses a PCB with a 5 prong connector rather than individual switches. You really won't know if a level will suit you or not until you try it and most people's descriptions will not be sufficient to explain the differences because they are subjective and effectively a question of preference that you won't know the answer to until you actually try the levers out yourself.

This has been my fundamental problem with most commercial sticks. They put the bloody lever so dang close to the buttons. Probably the #1 reason why I build my own. I think the HRAP cases tend to be some of the worst lever-crowding offenders too. Glad I'm not the only one with that complaint. That said, I also can't stand playing in my lap and prefer a table setup anyways.

Your problem makes it sound like maybe that Pelican is using an analog stick rather than a digital stick. When I tried to look up Pelican sticks for the PS2, they all seemed to be analog. Your execution is probably due to a slight over-rotation when using your left hand that is causing the stick to send that extra diagonal pickup. Digital is overall preferred for fighting games, specifically because it allows for finer control over things like that. You'd probably have no issues if you switched to using a standard digital lever rather than analog and as a result you wouldn't need to have a special right-side lever mount case built unless you *really* wanted to. Jeez, I wish I'd known this earlier. I've been having hell in training mode with my pad-hacked GGXrd LE stick. Makes things way easier.

Oh did you order the HRAP V4 Silent? The "magic" is a little foam pad that is inserted in the bottom of the case so that when you press the plunger down it doesn't smack into the bottom. You can check out Focus Attack's silencer pads for Sanwas for good reference since they look exactly like the ones used for the Kuro pads: http://www.focusattack.com/silencer-sanwa-seimitsu-30mm-foam-washers-8-pak/ If you did get a HRAPv4 Silent I'm curious how you like the Hayabusa silent lever. I'm not much of an optical fan but I thought the spring was way too weak. If you can put a 2lb JLF spring in there instead I think it really improved the feel.

B15SDM has done that sort of thing using a Dualshock 2 pad too (and of course it's B15SDM classy): https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.642355845781815.1073741831.474052909278777&type=1 It's definitely possible, but you'd need to do some kind of case work to really make it come out nice. On a side note, anyone that ordered the Japanese Guilty Gear Xrd LE, that fight pad that comes with has an excellent, easily pad-hacked PCB that could be used to wire up a PS4 compatible stick.

No, Sony introduced a security authorization chipset with the PS4 that apparently needs to re-authenticate at regular intervals, which was why AkiShop saw initial success with the PS360+ but had to backtrack. We'll have to resort to pad-hacking for a while it seems.

So for NA play-time is it mostly player lobbies or is there a specific online lobby room that folks are using? Kind of anxious to jump in and get some play-time with Labrys again, but kind of afraid of how much of a freebie I'll probably end up being.

Grim reapah all weekend! I'm actually leaving my lobby/stream "FreeTime!!" up all weekend at http://www.twitch.tv/blackraen -- Main account is idle for stream, if playing I'll be apcp_faller.

Thanks! I spent some time in training and realized that I'd been timing everything totally wrong! I'm getting wakeup grabs off a lot more reliably now. I guess the next level will be character awareness for DPs and block/punish follow throughs. Thanks for the tip! Now I just have to practice timing it to the green beat instead of the knockdown to account for wake up delays. Also, thanks to all/any for joining the lobby. Having lots of fun tonight.

I feel the flailing Gordeau vibe. I'm really not understanding how to oki with him at all so even when I do land something and run a combo, I just have to reset to neutral cause I get stuff anytime I try to keep it up. Also doing a west-coast lobby tonight with a stream if anyone's interesting beating my weak a** up, though some somewhat decent peeps have been showing up to run the show.

Saves the match to your replay library. First dialogue is asking if you want to upload it (optional, you can select キャンセル if you don't want others to see it). Second dialogue is to save it to your library.