This is a helpful video to get a look at Amane's playstyle and some good ideas to implement. Give it a watch after playing around with Amane in game a few times. For details on matchups, check the guide here.
- j.B: One of Amane's best air normals because of its speed and size. Its main weakness is that its hurtbox is big.
- j.2B: A great way to suddenly change Amane's movement and/or force your opponents to respect you after you've exhausted other air options.
- Zettou (236A/B 214A/B): Your main movement option. Use it to reset pressure, confuse your opponent, or escape a bad situation. Good use of Zettou is critical.
- 6A: Antiair
- 5B: Solid midrange tool
- 6B: Good way to back off from close range.
- 236D: Builds Spiral from full screen. Also a pressure tool with stance cancels.
- 5D: Solid Chip tool
Amane likes to stay away from the opponent and use his mobility to kite around his opponent. By moving unpredictably, Amane can punish an opponent's anti air attempts and make them move recklessly. Amane's huge normals and great mobility punish this recklessness. Even if your opponent blocks consistently or plays defensively, Amane can still build up the Spiral Gauge and chip them out anyway. This is especially important against rushdown characters, because you can use Hariken to build Spiral and force them to approach. Against zoners you want to counterpoke with C normals and Hariken when possible. Hariken also guard points projectiles, which has some situational use. C normals, of course, are great buttons to use at long ranges.
After you get in you can pressure your opponent with drills, Zettou movement and long normals. Even in pressure you're often in the air because of Zettou and increased options. Amane still has solid air options, though Ginga (214C) and Hariken (236D) are great specials to keep pressure on an opponent. Level 3 Drill is also a strong win condition that Amane can opt for. In pressure, 5D and 236A > j.D are common ways to chip out an opponent once Spiral has built up.
- 1 gauge has total 6000 points.
- Gauge depletes at 10 points per frame in all situations except while Amane is in hitstop or hits opponent with a drive move.
- Gauge overheats if gauge exceeds level 3.
- During overheat, gauge depletes at 50 points per frame and resets to level 1 at the end. (Always needs 120F to reset)
- During overheat, cannot use Hariken, Seijyuuren Soukyaku, or Goukaira Senrenpa.
- For normal drives, adds gauge from just before active frames start (simultaneous for 6D) until just before active frames end.
- Gauge depletion cut in half from just before active frames end until 66F after (negligible in OD).
- While in OD, restores gauge to level 3 by 100 points per frame, while at level 3 consumption rate changes to 30 points per frame.
Adapted from Kiefer's Pressure Guide:
Disclaimer: Pressure resets are a fundamental part of Amane’s game. Using his special moves to cancel your blocked moves into additional attacks very important to opening up your opponent, as Amane lacks a traditional mixup game. A few points to note before I go into detail.
- The pressure string I will be working with as an example is 2A > 2B > 5B > 1C > 5D
- Mix up when you cancel your pressure string (whether it is after 2B, 5B, 1C, 5D) as well as what you do to reset pressure. As an Amane player, depending on the distance of your opponent, their blocking habits (normal, instant, or barrier) you can gatling at any point in the above blockstring. This can keep opponents off balance by requiring them to react to WHEN the pressure reset is coming, as well as WHAT the reset will be.
Stuff > 236A > j.D > j.236A > j.D
The most basic reset option. If your opponent is happy to block your pressure, happily keep pressuring them and building drill gauge. The stuff > 236A > j.D part can be anti-aired on normal block at any level, although it gets tighter with each level. At level 3, if gatling from 5D, consider cancelling it quickly to avoid being pushed out. Opponents will often barrier :lvl2: and :lvl3: 5D with barrier, if they do so, they only have a 6 and 4 frame gap to anti air 236A j.D, respectively. The j.236A > j.D part is always a frame trap, so if you land the first j.D, there’s not really a reason to not do the second unless you’re baiting a reversal.
Stuff > slight delay > 214C
If your opponent is trying to mash out of your pressure without much thought, a 214C frame trap will counter hit their efforts. On CH, you can pick up 214C into a full air combo, but if they block it successfully, your pressure is over.
Stuff > 236DD
A rarely-seen pressure reset with a few upsides. It pulls Amane’s hurtbox backwards, which is useful against some reversals (especially Rachel’s 2C).
Stuff > 214A > j.C
A relatively safe pressure reset option with a number of potential follow-ups. Beats people mashing their anti-air buttons (as long as they have sufficient recovery) and catches opponents trying to jump out. On regular hit, you can transition into a combo using j.236A > j.B. If you want to be greedy, you can cancel a blocked j.C into j.236A > j.B to restart your pressure game, although be wary of people’s anti-airs. On CH you can gatling into j.2B into a full air combo. If j.C is blocked, you simply return to neutral.
Stuff > 6B > j.C
6B normally leaves you closer to the ground relative to 214A, making potential follow-ups more difficult to anti-air. After 2B, it is also the only gatling option besides hop that is safe against EA (5B, 1C, 3C, and 5D all have large whiff recovery). Ensure that you do not whiff 6B because of an opponent’s barrier blocking, as it does have considerable recovery. All options that work with 214A should work with this variant as well. The gap between j.C, j.236A > j.D is only 3 frames, making it impossible to anti-air without IB’ing.
Stuff > 214A > j.236A > j.B
The counterpart to the above option, this option generally beats jumping and blocking but loses to well-timed anti-airs. Depending on your opponent’s counter assault animation, this option can also beat counter assaults.
Stuff > 236DA
This mostly corner-only pressure option is most often seen in the corner at level 3, as level 3 Harikens give the most frame advantage. It is a high reward pressure reset option, as it leads to substantial damage on CH and large amounts of chip damage on block (plus enough blockstun for another free pressure reset in most cases). It does lose to mashing and jumping, however.
Stuff > 6D
The Woocash special. If your opponent’s asleep at the wheel, this is his highest risk but highest reward pressure reset option. Results in instant level 3, but loses to almost everything besides blocking.
Stuff > 236A > j.214A > j.2C
The “realest” punish for those trying to react and punish 236A > j.D. The only problem is, the combo afterwards is mostly nonexistent without 50 meter.
2A > 2B > 5B > 1C > 3C
If your opponent is buffering a dragon punch or is keen on jumping out of your pressure, this string of tight lows can open them up. The 3C will advance you forward, so ensure that you don’t unintentionally hop over your opponent with 236A. Feel free to use a j.2B RC crossup if this does occur, though.
Tips and Tricks
Amane's midrange options are quite bad as well, so closing the distance between you and him can force him to commit to a number of options that are terrible on whiff (5B, 1C, 4C) or jump away. Round start position is a common example of this. The main objective is to move steadily move into a range where you can threaten Amane for any mistake, more or less. At close range Amane's options are even worse because of his normals and lack of reversals. 6B is an important move to check, however, because it's a great disengage tool for Amane.
Click [★] for character's full frame data